A Persistent Opposition J. B. Jeyaretnam (1926-2008)

In the early 2000s, an old lonely Indian with unmistakable white sideburns was regularly spotted at Orchard, sometimes at City Hall or Raffles Place, standing for long hours and trying to sell his books to the crowd. Most walked past him without a second glance, some even shunned him.

The man was Joshua Benjamin Jeyaretnam, or better known as J.B.J., the leader of Workers’ Party (WP) for some thirty years from 1971 to 2001. J.B. Jeyaretnam had a reputation of being a fiery fighter who dedicated his life pursuing the idealistic dream of a true democracy. Born in an Anglican Christian family, Jeyaretnam was a bright student during his studies at St Andrew’s, and would later earn his law degree in London in 1951. During his stay in the United Kingdom, Jeyaretnam also met his future wife Margaret.

When he came back to Singapore, Jeyaretnam was a rising star in the legal sector, promoting to the chief of the Subordinate Judiciary by the age of mid-thirties. In 1963, a “disillusioned” Jeyaretnam resigned before venturing into private practice and eventually the political realm.

After taking over Workers’ Party in 1971, Jeyaretnam contested in five straight elections and by-elections, losing them all. 1981 was the turning point in Jeyaretnam’s political career, when he became Singapore’s first ever opposition Member of Parliament after beating People’s Action Party (PAP) candidate Pang Kim Hin in a by-election at Anson. Three years later, he was re-elected again, and was joined by Singapore Democratic Party’s Chiam See Tong, winner of Potong Pasir constituency.

An outspoken figure with a booming voice, Jeyaretnam’s debates in the parliament were aggressive but popular among the supporters. Shortly after his 1984 by-election victory, Jeyaretnam was charged for misreporting Workers’ Party’s accounts. The case dragged on for years, but it was enough to bar Jeyaretnam from contesting in the next election. He would also lost his license as a lawyer, despite backing from the Privy Council of the United Kingdom.

Jeyaretnam was further hit by defamation suits for slander when, at the 1988 General Election rallies, he gave a misleading speech in public about the former Minister of National Development Teh Cheang Wan, whose suicide in 1986 had shocked the Singapore society. Jeyaretnam was ordered to pay hundreds of thousands in compensation to the then-Prime Minister of Singapore Lee Kuan Yew.

After many years of banishment from the politics due to the defamation suits, Jeyaretnam finally got his chance to make a comeback in the 1997 General Election when he was elected by the Workers’ Party as a Non-Constituency Member of Parliament (NCMP). However, Jeyaretnam was once again removed from the Parliament in 2001 when he was declared a bankrupt due to his inability to pay the damages of the suits.

Despite a history of imprisonment, court cases and bankruptcy, Jeyaretnam never gave up. He was finally discharged from bankruptcy in 2007 after making partial payments to the previous damages. With the 2011 General Election in mind, Jeyaretnam founded the new Reform Party in mid-2008.

In the early morning of 30th September 2008, the persistent 82-year-old Jeyaretnam finally let go of his dreams, only three months after the establishment of the Reform Party. He passed away at Tan Tock Seng Hospital with a heart failure, leaving behind two sons Kenneth and Philip.

J.B Jeyaretnam never lived to see the “watershed” General Election of 2011, when the opposition created another history by winning a GRC (Group Representation Constituency). With the increasing political awareness among Singaporeans, will they continue to avoid him like a plague, if he is still alive today?

Published: 25 February 2012

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A Forgotten Past – The Last Royal Palace of Singapore

Do you know that the former royal family of Singapore existed until the late nineties? They had lived at Istana Kampong Glam (also known as Sultan’s Palace) for generations until the Istana was drawn for redevelopment into the Malay Heritage Centre in 1999.

The story goes all the way back to the 19th century.

The 18th ruler of Johor, Sultan Hussein Mua’zzam Shah ibni Mahmud Shah Alam (1776-1835), built the original Istana Kampong Glam at Beach Road in 1819 after he signed a treaty with Sir Stamford Raffles, ceding Singapore to the British as a trading post. His eldest son, Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah (died 1877), hired Irish architect George Drumgoole Colemanl (1795-1844) to build a new palace, designed with a mixture of English and Malay elements, to replace the old one in 1840.

Sultan Ali gave the Istana to his son Tengku Alam Shah (1846-1891), while spending the last few years of his life in Melaka (Malacca). By then, the power of the Johor Sultan was diminishing, overshadowed by the Temenggong. Temenggong was the local chieftain who acted as a vassal to the sultan, providing military support and sometimes exerting huge influence in the state affairs.

In a bid to claim the sovereignty of Johor, Raja Temenggong Tun Daeng Ibrahim (died 1862) entered negotiations with Sultan Ali in 1855 with the support of the British. The outcome was that Sultan Ali retained the rights of his Kesang territories at Muar and received a monthly allowance, but had to formally give up his sultanship and rule of Johor. He would still be recognised as the Sultan of Singapore though.

When Sultan Ali died in 1877, his Kesang territories went into a succession dispute. The lands were ceded through an electorate to Daeng Ibrahim’s son Abu Bakar (1833-1895), instead of Tengku Alam, Sultan Ali’s son. Tengku Alam tried to launch a civil war in 1879, known as Jementah Civil War, in an attempt to recover his properties and sultanship, but the uprising was easily quashed by the British. In 1885, the Temenggong family officially took over the rule of Johor when Abu Bakar proclaimed himself as the sultan. He became the 21st Sultan of Johor and was later widely regarded as the father of modern Johor.

A bitter Tengku Alam returned to Istana Kampong Glam of Singapore, where he died in 1891 at an age of only 46. His supporters still regarded him as the true Sultan of Johor. In 1896, the family of Tengku Alam fought over the inheritance rights of the Istana, giving the British the chance to take over the estate as state land. However, the Sultan Hussien Ordinance of 1905 allowed the descendants of the royal family to continue living in the estate and claiming allowance from the British colonial government.

After independence, the Singapore government also allowed the royal descendants to continue staying in Istana Kampong Glam. They were given $250,000 to $350,000 annually in the nineties until the Istana was selected for conservation and restoration in 2001. The descendants of the royal family of Sultan Hussien, formerly the rightful owner of Singapore, left the Istana and were seldom heard of since then.

So how many Istana (palace in Malay) are there in Singapore?

The royal Istana that once existed in Singapore were Istana Lama, Istana Tyersall, Istana Woodneuk and Istana Bidadari. Istana Kampong Glam is the only one left standing today.

Sultan Abu Bakar’s grandfather Temenggong Abdul Rahman (died 1825) had an Istana Lama (old palace) built at Telok Blangah of Singapore (known as Teluk Belanga then) in 1824. The European-styled mansion stood on a large 200 acres of land given by the British as a resettlement deal after the 1819 treaty. Today, Temenggong Mosque (built in 1890) stands in its place. Temenggong Abdul Rahman and his son Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim were buried in a tomb beside the mosque. Both the mosque and royal tomb are still owned by the Johor Sultanate.

Abu Bakar himself was born at Telok Blangah, succeeding the ownership of the estate and title of Temenggong in 1862 from his father Daeng Ibrahim. After moving out of Telok Blangah, he bought the land near the Botanic Gardens to build a grand red-roofed mansion known as Istana Tyersall, which was completed in 1892, three years before his death. It was one of the first residences in Singapore powered with electricity, and was furnished with extravagant ornaments and furniture. It also had a 21m-tall tower decorated with a symbolic crescent and star. Istana Tyersall, however, was destroyed in a fire in 1905.

On a nearby hill, Sultan Abu Bakar built another majestic blue-roofed house for his beloved fourth wife Sultana Khadijah. It was Istana Woodneuk, often confused with Istana Tyersall but was just as grand during its heydays. In 1930, the house was renovated by Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar (1873-1959), son of Sultan Abu Bakar and the 22nd Sultan of Johor. Today, it is surrounded by thick overgrown vegetation along Holland Road, forgotten and in ruins. The land where the house is standing on still belongs to the Sultan of Johor.

Istana Bidadari was the birthplace of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar, whose mother was Zubaidah binti Abdullah (Cecilia Catharina Lange), the Danish wife of Sultan Abu Bakar. The palace was located on a 45-acre of land at Bidadari Estate in Serangoon district. In 1904, the colonial government acquired the land and turned it into the Bidadari Cemetery for Muslims, Hindus, Singhalese and Christians. The cemetery was closed for burials in 1972 and was cleared by 2001 to make way for the North-East MRT Line.

Johor Sultanate’s administrative capital was shifted to Tanjung Puteri (present-day Johor Baru) from Telok Blangah in 1866, but the Johor royalty continued to build their residences in Singapore in order to maintain a presence here.

The most famous Istana in Singapore is none other than the one at Orchard Road, which is the official office and residence for the President of Singapore and is not related to the Johor Sultanate.

It was constructed in 1869 by British architect John Frederick Adolphus McNair on the orders of Singapore’s first colonial governor Sir Harry Saint George Ord (1819-1885). Also formerly known as the Government House and Istana Negara Singapura, it was occupied by 21 colonial governors, two Yang di-Pertuan Negara (Head of State) and six Presidents of Singapore (although no Presidents have lived there since 1959). In between, it was also forcefully occupied by the Japanese forces during the Second World War. The Istana was gazetted as a national monument in 1992.

Inside the compound of the Istana, there is also this beautiful house known as Istana Villa. It was built in 1908 as the official residence for the Aide-De-Camp, Private Secretary of the Governor of Straits Settlement. The black and white colonial bungalow became the Attorney-General’s home in 1958.

From independence to 1984, the bungalow was used as a state residence for prestigious foreign guests, such as China’s Deng Xiaoping and Malaysia’s Dr Mahathir Mohamad.

Published: 21 February 2012

Updated: 03 October 2012

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A Visit to Reflections at Bukit Chandu

The minute-long signal was being sounded all over Singapore at 12.05pm today to mark the Total Defence Day, and this year is a special one.

It is the 70th anniversary of the Fall of Singapore. On the 15th of February 1942, the British surrendered their crown colony, dubbed as the “Impregnable Fortress”, to the Japanese after only seven days of resistance. Hong Kong, Britain’s other crown colony of the East, had also fallen on 25 December 1941.

With the last line of defence broken and the Allies short of food supplies and ammunition, Lieutenant-General Arthur Ernest Percival (1887 – 1996) led his officers in an unconditional surrender to the Japanese military commander Lieutenant-General Tomoyuki Yamashita. The Japanese Occupation officially began, as the people of Singapore lived in horror and suffering for the next three years and eight months.

The Battle of Pasir Panjang was one of the important events before the Fall of Singapore. The 1st and 2nd Battalion of the Malay Regiment (Askar Melayu) were tasked to defend the western and southern parts of the island. The Japanese invaders advanced quickly to Jurong after their landings at Kranji and Sarimbun. By 13 February 1942, the Japanese started attacking Pasir Panjang Ridge, forcing the defenders to retreat to Bukit Chandu.

Bukit Chandu was then an important strategic location for the Allies, as the loss of the hill would provide a direct route for the invaders to Alexandra, where the British had ammunition storage, military hospital and other key installations.

One fifth of the Malay Regiment perished in the fierce battle. Heroic Second Lieutenant Adnan bin Saidi (1915 – 1942) urged his troops not to surrender and fight to the last man despite heavily outnumbered. When Bukit Chandu was eventually captured two days later, Adnan bin Saidi was caught and brutally killed by the Japanese.

Bukit Chandu means opium hill in Malay, after a British-owned opium-processing factory that was established at the foot of the hill in 1910.

The Reflections at Bukit Chandu located at the peak of the hill (via Pepys Road) was formerly a black and white bungalow built by the colonial government for the senior officers. More than 100 years old, it was designed with strong “Mock Tudor” British architectural style. During the Second World War, the house was being used to store military and food supplies.  In the past, there were also two similar bungalows on the hill but they were demolished in 1987.

In 2002, the bungalow was restored and officially reopened as a small interesting museum which showcases the details of how the Malay Regiment defended Bukit Chandu against the Japanese invasion. It will be opened to the public for free from 15th to 18th February 2012. Do pay a visit if you are interested in knowing more about the darkest period of Singapore’s history.

Published: 15 February 2012

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Grand Mansions, Bungalows and Villas of the Past

The grand mansions and villas of yesteryear might not match the likes of the modern houses owned by the rich and famous today at Nassim Road, Ridley Park, Bukit Timah or Sentosa Cove, but they certainly had their charms in old architectural designs such as British colonial, Peranakan, Art Deco or neo-Renaissance.

Some of these grand houses did not survive till this day, but fortunately many have been preserved, or integrated with new buildings. Others are forgotten, probably waiting patiently for new owners to give it a new lease of life.

The list is not in any alphabetical and chronological order.

Atbara House, Gallop Road (1898-Present)

The abandoned black and white colonial house at a small hill beside Gallop Road is the former French embassy to Singapore, otherwise known as Atbara House.

It was built in 1898 by architect Alfred John Bidwell (1869-1918), who was also the designer of Raffles Hotel, Stamford House and Goodwood Park Hotel. The two-storey house possesses a distinctive red roof and whitewashed walls that are still in a considerably good shape today, although some parts of the house have exposed their neglected conditions since the French embassy moved to another location in 1999.

Matilda House, Punggol (1902-Present)

A weekend resort located in the far north of Singapore built by wealthy Irish lawyer Joseph William Cashin (1844-1907) in 1902, the Matilda House had six rooms, a fruit orchard and even an outdoor tennis court during its heydays.

It was unknown when the house was abandoned, but the nearby land was acquired by the government in the 1970s. It was placed on the conservation list in 2000, when Punggol was in the stage of development into a new town.

Today, blocks of new flats have filled the empty field where the house stands on. It will soon be given a new lease of life after decades of abandonment.

Sea Breeze Lodge, Marine Parade Road (1898-Present)

Owned by the Choa family as a seaside resort, this villa at Marine Parade, also known as Sea Breeze Lodge, was only 5m from the coast before the government did a land reclamation in the 1970s.

Malacca-born businessman Choa Kim Keat (undetermined-1907), who had Kim Keat Road named after him, built several grand mansions in Singapore, but only Sea Breeze Lodge is left standing today.

After being occupied by the Japanese forces during the Second World War, the Choa family returned and lived in it for generations until when they sold it to Far East Organisation for $104 million. The house was conserved in 2009, and may be refurbished into a clubhouse for the condominiums expected to be built in a few years’ time.

Sun Yat Sen Villa, Tai Gin Road (1880-Present)

The double-storey colonial-styled villa at Balestier, now known as Sun Yat-Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall, is also known as Wan Qing Yuan (晚晴园) and formerly as Sun Yat-Sen Villa.

The house was known as Bin Chan House in the late 19th century, which got its name from Bin Chan, a mistress of Chinese businessman Boey Chuan Poh. In 1905, rubber tycoon Teo Eng Hock (1872-1957) bought the villa for his mother Tan Poh Neo. When Dr Sun Yat-Sen (1866-1925) visited Singapore to promote his revolutionary nationalist ideas, Teo Eng Hock offered the villa as a residence and the headquarter for Dr Sun Yat-Sen’s party Tong Meng Hui.

Teo Eng Hock sold his property in the later years when his business suffered a decline. Prominent businessman and philanthropist Lee Kong Chian (1893-1967) led a group of Chinese merchants to buy over the villa. It was occupied by the Japanese during World War II, and took over by Singapore Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry after the war.

Sun Yat-Sen Villa was gazetted as a national monument in 1994 and underwent extensive restoration three years later.

Chek Jawa House No. 1, Pulau Ubin (1930s-Present)

This little Tudor-styled cottage is located on Pulau Ubin, a north-eastern island of Singapore. Built in the 1930s by former Chief Surveyor of Singapore Landon Williams, this beautiful resort, resembling an English cottage, is completed with a private jetty and the only workable fireplace in Singapore.

For decades, the house was badly affected by the strong winds and rains at the eastern side of Pulau Ubin. It was not until 2003 that Chek Jawa was given the conversation status and opened four years later as a Visitor Centre for the public after a series of renovations.

Karikal Mahal, Still Road South (1920-Present)

In 1920, rich Indian cattle merchant Moona Kadir Sultan built this huge grand mansion for his numerous wives and named it Karikal Mahal (Mahal is “palace” in Indian, whereas Karikal is the name of a South Indian town). It had four luxurious houses completed with a spacious garden with artificial lake and fountain. Located just in front of the sea before the land reclamation of the East Coast area, its windows, roof and arches showed glimpses of Italian style.

In 1947, the entire site was sold to Lee Rubber Company which renovated the place into a 20-room budget hotel known as Renaissance Grand Hotel. Its garden was split away from the mansion when Still Road was constructed in 1973.

Today, it is forgotten by the public and is used largely as a storage place for unwanted furniture.

Black & White Colonial House, Seletar Camp Park Lane (1930s-2012)

The 30-plus black and white houses near Park Lane of Seletar Camp are due to be demolished in 2012, with the exception of a few. There are three huge mansions among the cluster of the colonial houses, one of them was formerly a clubhouse.

Seletar Camp was established by the British as early as 1928, and the houses were the home of the British military personnel. The two biggest mansions were perhaps reserved for the highest ranking officers during that era. The rapid development of the region as an Aerospace Hub has unfortunately caused the abandonment and eventual demolition of these beautiful houses.

House No. 106, Jervois Road (undetermined-Present)

It is unknown when was the house built, but it has been in existence before the Second World War. From the limited records, House No. 106 at Jervois Road was used as a temporary residence for former British Resident Cabinet Minister Duff Cooper (1890-1954) and his wife Lady Diana in 1941.

Duff Cooper was in Singapore to deal with the urgent political situation at the start of the Second World War. He had based in Singapore briefly to set up his headquarters in dealing with the full-blown war in Pacific.

The Pier, Lim Chu Kang (1940s-Present)


One of the most unique houses in Singapore, it was built on a pier, as its nickname suggests. The Pier was another weekend resort owned by the wealthy Cashin family. It was likely to be built in the 1940s, according to the reports that this area, as well as The Pier, fell to the Japanese forces in February 1942.

Howard Cashin and his wife would occasionally stay here after their marriage in 1953. Their regular home was the Matilda House at Punggol. The Cashin family had another splendid home at Amber Road’s “Butterfly House”.

Beaulieu House, Sembawang (1910-Present)

Situated on a small hill right at the end of Sembawang Park, beside the former Singapore Naval Base (now Sembawang Shipyard), the Beaulieu House was built in around 1910 as a seaside resort owned by a family of surname David.

The house was acquired by the British colonial government in the 1920s, and was later used as the private residence for the senior naval officers. Admiral Geoffrey Layton (1884-1964), Commander-In-Chief of the China Station for Britain, stayed in it for two years just before the Second World War.

The century-old Beaulieu House, designed with a mixture of Neo-Classical and Victorian styles, was probably named after a place in England. It was given the conversation status in 2005, and is now operated as a restaurant.

Bukit Rose, Bukit Timah Road (early 1900s)

Located at Bukit Timah Road and built in the early 20thcentury, Bukit Rose was local Chinese businessman Ong Sam Leong’s (1857-1918) private residence. Besides being the key supplier of labourers to the mines of phosphate-rich Christmas Island, Ong also had rubber plantations, brickworks and sawmills in his vast business empire.

One of the most successful businessmen of his era, Ong Sam Leong was well respected among the communities. When his wife Yeo Yean Neo passed away in 1935, the Johor Sultan even sent his state band to play for her funeral.

Little India’s Sam Leong Road was named after him, whereas Boon Tat Road at Lau Pa Sat was named after his son Ong Boon Tat. After his death, Ong Sam Leong was buried in the largest tomb at Bukit Brown Cemetery.

Alkaff Mansion, Telok Blangah Green (1918-Present)

Occupying a landsize of 780 square meters on top of a small hill at Bukit Jagoh (now known as Telok Blangah Green), the Alkaff Mansion was a holiday villa built by Syed Abdul Rahman Alkaff to entertain their customers and guests.

Syed Abdul Rahman Alkaff (1880-1948) was a Yemeni trader who came to Singapore in the early 20th century. The Alkaff family was famous for their regional businesses in spices, sugar, coffee and other commodities. They also had vast property interests in other parts of Singapore such as Pasir Panjang and Henderson Road, and owned a beautiful Japanese-styled Alkaff Lake Gardens near MacPherson Road.

After the Second World War, the Alkaff family sold much of its properties, including the Alkaff Lake Gardens, in a bid to revive its struggling businesses. Alkaff Mansion, built in 1918, was abandoned and left forgotten until 1990, when it was leased to Hotel Properties Ltd for redevelopment into a fine-dining place.

The venture lasted more than a decade when it was finally closed down in 2003. The mansion was left empty once more.

Former Eng Wah Building, Jalan Besar Road (early 1900s-2006)

Former Eng Wah Building was a century-old conserved building that was destroyed by a fire in early 2006. The name derived from the popular cinema operator Eng Wah who rented this place as an office in the mid-1900s.

Located in an area with old world charm and designed with Peranakan flavours, it was unfortunate that the three-storey building was deemed structurally unsafe after the fire disaster, and was demolished by the end of 2006.

Wesley House, Mount Sophia (late 1800s-early 1900s)

Little was known about this house except that it was used as a residence and training centre for Methodist ministers. The first owners were Reverend Ralph Waldo Munson, Reverend Charles Corwin Kelso and Reverend Fred Hugh Morgan who registered the property.

Methodism was brought to Singapore by Reverend William Fitzjones Oldham (1854-1937) who arrived from India in 1885. Wesley House was part of the Methodist Episcopal Church started by the Americans in 1897 to strength the faith formation after Reverend Oldham. The Methodist congregation later had their official place of worship Wesley Methodist Church at Fort Canning Road built in 1908.

India House, Grange Road (1911-Present)

Built in 1911, the India House was a black and white colonial house located at Grange Road. It occupies a large area of 42,351 square feet of land and was bought by the Government of India in 1948, a year after its independence from the British rule. The house hosted its flag hoisting ceremony during the Indian Independence Day every year, attended by prominent Indians in Singapore.

There is little information about its previous owners, but after years of neglect, the house was in a bad dilapidated state before being owned by the Indian government. In 2009, it was restored by the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA). Today, it serves as the High Commission of India.

Hurricane House, Orchard Road (1860s-Present)

One of the early mansions along Orchard Road in the mid-19th century, the grand house, dubbed “Hurricane House”, was acquired by the King of Siam (Thailand) Somdech Phra Paramindr Maha Chulalonkorn (1853–1910).

Widely respected as the Thai monarch who led his kingdom to modernisation, King Chulalonkorn had always been on friendly terms with the neighouring countries and Singapore was his first ever foreign trip in 1871. He decided to purchase the Hurricane House in the 1890s through Tan Kim Ching, the Thai Consul in Singapore. Two adjoining properties were later added to the mansion. Today, it is the Royal Thai Embassy along Orchard Road.

Gedung Kuning, Sultan Gate (1920s-Present)

Formerly known as the Bendahara (“Chief Minister” in Malay) House, the Palladian-styled house was owned by Tengku Mahmud, the third son of Sultan Ali (1824-1877), the former ruler of Johor. His brother Tengku Alam Shah (1846-1891) lived in the nearby Istana Kampong Glam. Although both of them were heirs to the sultanship of Johor, they were powerless to stop Temenggong Abu Bakar (1833-1895) from claiming the Johor territories from their family.

The house was later sold to Javanese businessman Haji Yusof Bin Haji Mohammad, whose descendants lived in it for generations. In 1999, the government acquired the house and placed it on the conservation list. Together with Istana Kampong Glam, it was redeveloped as the Malay Heritage Centre in 2003. Renamed as Gedung Kuning (“Yellow Mansion” in Malay), it now houses a restaurant called Tepak Sireh.

Bungalow 781, Mountbatten Road (1927-Present)

Named after Lord Louis Mountbatten (1900-1979), Mountbatten Road was formerly known as Grove Road. There was a vast coconut plantation in this area in the late 19th century, and was home to many rich merchants.

Nicknamed the “Millionaires’ Bungalows”, the houses, mainly single-storey built on brick piers, were a common sight. The designs of the bungalows were modelled after those in India, which had the rooms cooled by under-floor ventilation and were effective in the tropical countries.

The earliest known occupants of bungalow 781 were Charles James Lacey, Robert Dunman, Meyer-Hyeem Sassoon, and Richard Lake, registered in 1927. The unique house might be built at an earlier period. In the fifties, it was sold to a certain Mr Teo, before being auctioned for $10m in 2007.

Another famous house nearby was the Early Modern-styled Chansville, home of Singapore’s famous swimming champion and coach Dr Chan Ah Kow and his seven children including Alex, Roy, Mark and Patricia, all well-known for their swimming prowess in the sixties and seventies. The Chan family had lived in Chansville since 1940s. It was sold for $11m in 2004.

Houses No. 124 & 126, St Patrick’s Road (1914 & 1925-Present)

A splendid beachfront villa located at Katong, this was the former asset of Tan Soo Guan, the descendant of wealthy local Chinese merchant Tan Kim Seng (1805-1864), who had Kim Seng Road named after him.

The yellow mansion, designed with a mixture of Peranakan and British architectural styles, was built in 1914. The two-storey white English-styled building behind the mansion was added in 1925.

In late 2005, the Tan family sold their property to United Industrial Corp Ltd (UIC) for $65.5m, which developed the vast land into a 121-unit condominium called the “Grand Duchess of St Patrick’s”. Being a conserved building, the former villa was converted into a clubhouse named as Majestic Clubhouse.

Tanjong Katong Villa (late 1800s-mid-1900s)

Before the land reclamation of East Coast after the mid-sixties, the coastline was near to where Katong is today. Therefore, many wealthy figures would build their mansions and villas at Katong in the late-19th to mid-20th century as their private seaside resorts for the weekends.

This villa was modeled after a European bungalow, probably due to the fact that many early Eurasians lived in Katong in the early 20th century. Early houses with large grounds usually had a gazebo or pavilion on the lawn.

Whampoa/Bendemeer House, Serangoon Road (1840-1964)

The grand Whampoa House was owned by well-respected local Chinese businessman Hoo Ah Kay (1816–1880), or popularly known as Whampoa. Born at Whampoa near Canton, he came to Singapore at an age of 15. Venturing into shipping chandler, bakery, properties and even an ice house at River Valley Road, Hoo Ah Kay became one of the richest Chinese in Singapore in the 19th century.

In 1840, he built a grand mansion along Serangoon Road, completed with a beautiful Chinese garden that was opened to the public during Chinese New Years and was extremely popular among the Europeans. It was named Whampoa’s Gardens or Nam Sang Fa Un (南生花园).

Hoo Ah Kay was able to converse in English and thus held high positions in the British colonial government, such as consuls of Russia, China and Japan in Singapore. The present-day Whampoa area is named after him.

Whampoa House was sold to wealthy Teochew millionaire Seah Liang Seah (1850-1924) in 1881, a year after Hoo Ah Kay died. He renamed it Bendemeer House (明丽园), which lasted until 1964 when the government decided to demolish it to make way for the development of Boon Keng. Due to Seah Liang Seah’s contributions to the community, the nearby road was named as Bendemeer Road, whereas Liang Seah Street was named after him in 1926.

Eu Villa, Mount Sophia (1915-1980s)

Eu Villa was the residence of wealthy Penang-born local businessman and philanthropist Eu Tong Sen (1877-1974), nicknamed “King of Tin”. He took over his father’s estate at an age of 21 and expanded the family business in the tin mine industry. By 30, he was one of the richest men in Asia.

Eu Tong Sen later ventured into the medicinal sector to help his sickly workers and it developed into the well-known Eu Yan Sang today. Eu Tong Sen Street at Chinatown was named after him.

One of the largest houses in Singapore before the Second World War, this five-storey mansion was built at an estimated cost of $1m, an astronomical figure during that era. Eu Tong Sen hired Swan & Maclaren to design the house as early as 1915. It was demolished some time in the 1980s.

Butterfly House, Amber Road (1912-2007)

It was the only private residence designed by architect Alfred John Bidwell (1869-1918), who also designed the Atbara House, Raffles Hotel and Goodwood Park Hotel. Built in 1912, the beautiful mansion, the only residence in Singapore with curved wings by its side (hence its nickname), was the home of the famous Cashin family for generations. The Cashin family also had properties in other parts of Singapore, such as the Punggol Matilda House and the one at the pier.

The unique neo-Renaissance crescent-shaped house once stood just in front of the coastline, before the land reclamation of the present-day East Coast. In 2006, a private developer bought the land and planned to erect a 18-storey condominium at the site despite appeals by the public to preserve the house. In the end, the developer only retained the main porch and stair hall to integrate with the condominium, but the famed wings of the historical house were torn down.

Golden Bell Mansion, Mount Faber (1909-Present)


The former Golden Bell Mansion at Pender Road, Mount Faber, was owned by Tan Boo Liat, great-grandson of famous local Chinese pioneer and philanthropist Tan Tock Seng. It was constructed in 1909, and was named after Tan Boo Liat’s grandfather Tan Kim Ching (陈金钟), whose Chinese name was interpreted as Golden Bell.

The two-storey red-and-white-bricked Edwardian-styled Golden Bell Mansion was designed by then famous architect Wee Moh Teck. He also added Straits Chinese and Thai design elements in the appearance of the mansion.

Chinese great Dr Sun Yat-Sen had a brief stay in Golden Bell Mansion in 1911, invited by Tan Boo Liat who was then the President of the Singapore Kuomintang. The house was sold in 1934 when Tan Boo Liat passed away. It was leased to the Danish Seamen’s Church in 1984, which is still in operation today.

Mount Emily Mansion, Upper Wilkie Road (early 1900s-Present)

It is unknown when is this mansion built, but it is one of the grandest houses located at Mount Emily. The earliest record of ownership was a Mr J. Ikeda in 1935 who did some expansion to the house.

There was a Japanese community living nearby during the thirties, so Mount Emily Mansion became a Japanese General Consulate from 1939 to 1941.

After the Second World War, the former Ministry of Social Affairs took over the mansion, converting it into a Girls’ Home in 1969. In the eighties, it became the Wilkie Road Children’s Home, and then a counseling center for the drug addicts.

Today, the house is owned by Emily Hill Enterprise Ltd as a center for arts and business.

House of Jade, Nassim Road (1930s-1980s)

The Tiger Oil House of Jade at Nassim Road was the proud property of the famous Aw brothers, who displayed their large collection of jade in this house, open for public viewing in the 1930s.

The Aw brothers of Aw Boon Haw (1882-1954) and Aw Boon Par (1888-1944), being one of the most successful families in Singapore in the early 20th century, also owned the Haw Par Villa and the Tiger Balm Garden.

The vast collection in the House of Jade managed to escape the destruction of the Japanese Occupation during the Second World War. In 1979, the Aw family donated part of the collection to the National Museum of Singapore, whereas the mansion was demolished in the 80s. Today posh condominium Nassim Jade stands in its place.

Sri Temasek, Orchard Road (1869-Present)

The second most prestigious government house after the Istana at Orchard Road. Sri Temasek was built in 1869 under the order of Sir Henry St George Ord (1819-1885), Governor of the Straits of Settlement from 1867 to 1873. The double-storey detached house was designed by British architect John Frederick Adolphus McNair (1829-1910), using largely a western style decorated with several Oriental elements. Its name Sri Temasek means “splendour of Temasek” in Malay.

Sri Temasek was formerly used as a residence for the Colonial Secretary, while the Governor lived in the Istana. After independence, it served as the official residence for the Prime Minister of Singapore, but none of the country’s Prime Ministers have made it their home. In the sixties and seventies, it was used mainly as a site for state functions. In 2010, it was used for holding the wake of Madam Kwa Geok Choo, wife of Lee Kuan Yew.

Sri Temasek was gazetted as a national monument in 1992.

House No. 9, Buckley Road (early 1900s-Present)

House No. 9 of Buckley Road is one of Singapore’s remaining houses built on raised footings. Completed in the early 20th century, it was designed with a mixture of Baroque and Classical styles, which were popular before the Art Deco and Modern designs of the 1930s.

The bungalows in the same area were also designed in the same manner. The symmetrical bungalow has a giant tall porch that seems to welcome its guests. It was given the conservation status in 2008, and three years later, House No. 9 became the clubhouse of the newly launched condominium Buckley Classique.

Chee Guan Chiang House, Grange Road (1930-Present)


Chee Guan Chiang House was hidden away from the main road of Grange Road but a legal dispute in 2005 threw the pale-orange mansion into the spotlight.

Built in 1930, it was a fine example of a Modern bungalow, designed by a leading Modern Movement architect Ho Kwong Yew. Also the designer of the original Haw Par Villa, Ho Kwong Yew was killed during the Japanese Occupation.

Typical Modern styles emphasize on straightforward lines, horizontality and proportionality. The mansion has mild steel reinforcement, extensive windows, curved walls as well as a roof garden. Its design was heavily influenced by the architecture of the Weissenhof Siedlung of Stuttgart (1927) and the Da La Warr Pavilion of the United Kingdom (1935).

Chee Guan Chiang House got its “name” from its first owner Chee Guan Chiang, the eldest son of OCBC Group’s first chairman, Malacca-born Chee Swee Cheng.

The house is currently owned by Lee Tat Developments and was given conservation status in 2008. Due to its 100,000-sq-ft landsize and prime location, the estate is estimated to worth more than $400 million today.

Haw Par Villa Mansion (1937-1945)


Beside the House of Jade, Tiger Balm tycoon Aw Boon Haw also built a magnificent mansion for his beloved brother Aw Boon Par inside the Haw Par Villa. Many distinguished guests were invited on its opening day in March 1937.

Designed by Ho Kwong Yew (also designer of Chee Guan Chiang House), the mansion had a huge central hall, a dining room, a drawing room, a dressing room and two bedrooms. The most eye-catching part was the seven domes over the rooms.

Unfortunately this Modern-styled mansion lasted only couples of years, when it was later destroyed by the Japanese bombings during the Second World War.

Command House, Kheam Hock Road (1938-Present)

Originally called Flagstaff House, Command House was the official residence for the British General Officer Commanding (GOC) of Malaya from 1938 to 1971, when the British made their final withdrawal from Singapore.

Built in 1938 at a cost of $100,000, Command House was the second residence for the GOC after the original Flagstaff House at Mount Rosie. The first resident of this grand colonial mansion was Major General W.G.S. Dobbie. A total of 15 British military officers had stayed in this house, including the famous Admiral Lord Louis Mountbatten (1900-1979).

From 1979 to 1989, Command House served as the official residence for the Speaker of Parliament Dr Yeoh Khim Seng. Former President of Singapore Ong Teng Cheong also had a brief stay in the house in the mid-nineties when the Istana underwent renovations.

The mansion was gazetted as a national monument in 2009. Today, it serves as a campus for UBS Business University.

Old Admiralty House, Old Nelson Road (1939-Present)

Perhaps one of the houses with the most names, the Old Admiralty House was called Canberra House (1939-1945), Nelson House (1945-1958), Admiralty House (1958-1971), Anzuk House (1971-1975), Yishun Country Club (1991-2001). In 2002, it was renamed Old Admiralty House and gazetted as a national monument.

Designed by British architect Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944), the house served as the strategic planning headquarters for the British armed forces. After the Second World War, it became the official residence of the Royal Navy Commander-in-Chief of the Far East Station.

Resembling a traditional English cottage, the two-storey brick bungalow is currently leased to YESS Group Pte Ltd as a recreational clubhouse.

Grange House, Grange Road (1850s-undetermined)

Grange House was one of the earliest mansions built at around Grange Road, which was constructed in 1866 and named after this house.

In 1846, Dr Thomas Oxley bought a large plot of land from the British government to cultivate a nutmeg plantation. The land, bounded by present-day River Valley and Orchard Road, was largely an uncleared forest. The land later became known as the Oxley’s Estate, and Thomas Oxley had his private residence built there, named as Grange House. Grange Road first served as a private road leading to the Oxley’s Estate.

Little is known about the Grange House but it no longer exists today. Grange Road, on the other hand, has developed into one of the main roads at Orchard area.

Spring Grove, Grange Road (1845-Present)

It is the clubhouse of a posh condominium at Grange Road now, but the history of Spring Grove goes all the way back to the 1840s. The double-storey Victorian bungalow was first owned by Hoo Ah Kay in 1845, who also built the famous Whampoa House at Serangoon Road.

Han Becker of Behn Meyer & Company bought the 263,400 sq-ft property in 1906, before the house changed hands again to serve as the residence for the United States’ ambassadors to Singapore from 1936 to 1941.

After the Second World War, the US embassy took back the ownership again, until 1991 when it sold the land to City Development Limited. The condominium completed in 1996 is named after this grand bungalow.

Westbourne (Field House), Gilstead Road (early 1900s-Present)

Located at Gilstead Road near Newton Circus, Westbourne was reputedly built by the Chinese father of British author Leslie Charteris, born Leslie Charles Bowyer-Yin (1907-1993). During the Second World War, it was forcibly occupied to serve as the Kriegsmarine (War Navy) Headquarters (Stützpunkt-Office) for the alliance of the German-Japanese forces.

It was renamed Field House after Professor Elaine Field, a paediatrician who founded the Spastic Children’s Association of Singapore. The property was leased by the association from the Singapore government in 1957 to act as their headquarters. After 2003, the place became the Gracefields Kindergarten.

Tan Chin Tuan Mansion, Cairnhill (early 1930s-Present)

Tan Chin Tuan Mansion is another house that is fortunately given the conservation status and turned into a clubhouse or integrated part of a condominium instead of demolition.

The two-storey Peranakan and colonial styled bungalow was built in the early thirties by Chinese pioneer Tan Kah Kee (1874-1961) and bought by prominent banker and philanthropist Tan Sri (Dr) Tan Chun Tuan (1908-2008) in 1939. The Tan family had lived in it for decades, before the house underwent major renovations in 1969.

A 20-storey residential tower of the same name was built over the bungalow in 2008, using the center of the house as its main lift lobby. It even won the URA architectural heritage award that year.

House No. 38, Oxley Road (late 1800s-Present)

mansions and villas of the past - 38 oxley road2

This is, of cos, one of the most famous houses in Singapore, being the home of Singapore’s former Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew for almost seven decades. In 1954, a group of 20 people, including 14 founding members of PAP, met at the basement of the house to discuss the independence of Singapore from British rule.

The eight-room house at 38 Oxley Road was built by a Jewish merchant in the late 19th century. It was where current Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong spent his childhood. Lee Kuan Yew has suggested the old house to be demolished when he passes away, instead of preserving it as a heritage site.

Telok Paku Resthouse, Changi (1930s-1977)

Built before the Second World War, the first owner of this old villa was unknown. It was likely to be the residence of a British officer stationed at the Changi military base. Since 1962, the Singapore government took over and rent it out to the public as a chalet.

At the quiet corner of Changi, there were once around 10 such villas standing at Telok Paku, Ayer Gemuroh, Wing Loong Road and Mata Ikan areas. By 1977, all the villas were demolished to make way for the construction of the new Changi International Airport.

Bedok Resthouse, Old Bedok Road (undetermined-1990s)

Long Beach Seafood operated at Bedok Resthouse as early as 1946, and was a popular venue for wedding dinners in the fifties and sixties. Facing the beach and sea, it was also patronised by many British officers after the Second World War.

Bedok Resthouse was a simple two-storey colonial building that lasted until the 1990s, witnessing the dramatic changes of the landscape it once stood on. In 1966, the land reclamation of East Coast saw its splendid seafront view vanished. The coastline was moved more than a kilometer away.

Today, Fairmount Condominium stands in its place.

Cliff House, Bukit Chermin (1848-1960s)

Situated at the summit of Bukit Chermin (Mirror Hill in Malay), Cliff House was built as early as 1848 by prominent British businessman W..P.W Kerr, owner of Paterson, Simons & Company Limited. Kerr was also one of the founders of the New Harbour Dock Company, formed to develop the docking facilities of what is now the Keppel Harbour.

Cliff House was destroyed by a fire in the 1960s.

House No. 30, Bukit Chermin (early 1900s-Present)

This is the largest of the four existing black and white bungalows still standing at Bukit Chermin. It is known as House No. 30, although it has been misunderstood as the Cliff (or Cliffe) House, which was actually demolished after a fire in the 1960s (see above).

It was likely to be the residence of the portmaster during the colonial era. The majestic house, located at the east side of Labrador Park, has a splendid seafront view, and is easily visible from Tanjong Berlayer. It remains unoccupied now, although there are plans to convert it into a F&B (Food & Beverage) hub.

The area of Bukit Chermin was given the conservation status in 2008.

House of Tan Teng Niah, Little India (1900-Present)

Built in 1900, this house is one of the last Chinese villas left standing in Little India. It is known as the House of Tan Teng Niah (陈东岭), who was a prominent local Chinese businessman who had many confectionery factories along Serangoon Road and a rubber smokehouse at Kerbau Road in the early 20th century.

The eight-room villa, designed with a courtyard, bamboo tiled roof and swinging doors, was Tan Teng Niah’s gift to his wife. It was restored in the 1980s, but its colourful appearance was added on in a later period. Its original colours were whitewashed walls with a green roof. The house is currently leased out for commercial use.

River House, River Valley Road (1880s-Present)

Early Teochew businessman Tan Yeok Nee 陈旭年 (1827-1902) built this house in the 1880s, rumoured to be a gift for his mistress. Tan Yeok Nee came from China at an young age and made his fortune through gambier, pepper, alcohol and opium trades. On very good terms with the Johor Sultan, Tan Yeok Nee would later become Malaya’s biggest kangchu (港主, lord of the river settlements) at the age of 39. By 1868, the sultanate bestowed Tan Yeok Nee the status of the kapitan (representative of the Chinese enclaves), and presented him with the title of “administration” (资政).

His River House, also known as Water Ripple House (涟漪楼), is one of the rare existing houses in Singapore designed in Southern Chinese architectural style, decorated with sculptures of many symbolic animals in dragon-fish, cranes and Chinese unicorns (麒麟). Tan Yeok Nee had another preserved house at the junction of Penang Road and Clemenceau Avenue (see below).

The River House has been utilised as a warehouse and a Chinese clan association in recent years.

House of Tan Yeok Nee, Penang Road (1882-Present)

Currently leased to the University of Chicago Graduate School of Business, this century-old house was originally known as “House of Administration” (资政第). Together with the River House, they are the last remaining Chinese-styled mansions in Singapore.

The House of Tan Yeok Nee is also the only surviving house of the famous “Four Big Mansions” (四大厝) built by Teochew tycoons in the late 19th century, where the other three were the House of Tan Seng Poh (located at the junction of Loke Yew Street and Hill Street), the House of Seah Eu Chin (located at the northern Boat Quay) and the House of Wee Ah Hood (also known as 大夫第 and demolished in 1961).

Conserved as a national monument in 1974, the house has undergone dramatic events in its history. It was acquired in the early 20th century when the first railway was constructed. The house became home for the Tank Road Station master.

It was sold to the Anglican Church in 1912, which set up St Mary’s Home and School for the Eurasian girls. In 1938, the Salvation Army took over the site as their headquarters but it was bombed and occupied by the Japanese forces during the Second World War. After the war, extensive repairs were carried out and when the Salvation Army was relocated to Bishan in 1991, the house was sold to Cockpit Hotel and subsequently Wing Tai Group.

House at Nee Soon Village (mid 1800s-1976)

It was the first concrete house at Nee Soon Village at the northern part of Singapore. Nee Soon Village was established as early as 1850, and consisted mostly of wooden attap houses, farms and plantations. The double-storey bungalow stood at the junction of Mandai Road, Upper Thomson Road and Sembawang Road.

It was occupied by the Japanese as one of their operational headquarters during the Second World War. The last owner Soh Chee Kim was requested by the authority to vacate the house by 1976 upon its demolition.

Note the old Nee Soon Post Office in the background of the photograph.

House No. 1, Bedok Avenue (undetermined-Present)

At the quiet estate between Bedok Avenue and Jalan Haji Salam stands a dilapidated villa that seems to be lost in time. There is little information about the house, but its design looks to be a mixture of Peranakan and Straits Chinese styles. The vertically long rectangular wooden windows resemble those of the Chinese shophouses.

There is also a rare single-storey kampong house beside the villa, which is currently unoccupied.

Old Manasseh Meyer Bungalow, Netheravon Road (1927-Present)

The old bungalow was named after its first owner Sir Manasseh Meyer (1843-1930), who was a wealthy British Jew who came to Singapore in 1861. A businessman as well as a philanthropist, Meyer contributed generously to the educational institutions of Singapore, particularly to Raffles College. He also built the famous Maghain Aboth Synagogue and Chesed-El Synagogue. The long Meyer Road at East Coast was named after him.

The British bought over the bungalow from Meyer in 1933 to operate as a school for the military personnel based at Changi. It was occupied by the Japanese during the Second World War to house prisoners-of-war. After the war, the house served as a temporary hostel for the Royal Air Force officers. Today, it is part of the Civil Service Club

Tyersall House, Tyersall Avenue (1854-1890)

The Tyersall House, not to be confused with Istana Tyersall or Istana Woodneuk, was built by the first lawyer in Singapore William Napier in 1854. Napier arrived at Singapore in 1831 and together with G.D.Coleman, Edward Boustead and Walter Scott Lorrain, they launched the Singapore Free Press, Singapore’s second English language newspaper after the Singapore Chronicle. Napier Road was named after him.

On good terms with Temenggong Abu Bakar, Napier sold his land to him in the 1860s. Tyersall House was later destroyed by a fire in 1890, prompting Abu Bakar, who proclaimed to be the Sultan of Johor, to build another magnificent house as a replacement. That house was known as Istana Tyersall.

Istana Tyerall and Istana Woodneuk, Johor Sultan’s former royal palaces in Singapore, are further discussed in The Last Royal Palace in Singapore.

Published: 08 February 2012

Updated: 15 July 2015

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Tribute to Dr Toh Chin Chye (1921-2012)

Early Days

One of the founding pioneers of modern Singapore, Dr Toh Chin Chye 杜进才 was born in Taiping, Malaysia in 1921 to the son of a bicycle shop owner.

After early education in Ipoh, Dr Toh came to study at Raffles College in Singapore and proceeded to London for a physiology doctorate, where he met Lee Kuan Yew and Dr Goh Keng Swee.

Founding of PAP

Dr Toh returned to Singapore in 1953 as a lecturer, before entering the political realm by establishing the People’s Action Party (PAP) with Lee Kuan Yew (born 1923), Dr Goh Keng Swee (1918 – 2010) and Sinnathamby Rajaratnam (1915 – 2006). He was appointed the Chairman of the party and served as the Deputy Prime Minister (1959 – 1968) when Singapore attained self government in 1959.

The Singapore Flag and National Anthem

For 140 years between 1819 and 1959, Singapore flew the Union Jack flag, the flag of the United Kingdom. When the self government was formed, Dr Toh led the committee to design a new flag for Singapore. The colours and designs was carefully chosen with considerations to the neighbouring countries and the races in Singapore. According to Lee Kuan Yew’s biography, the crescent was flavoured by the Malay population, whereas the Chinese liked the five stars, referenced after the flag of the People’s Republic of China formed in 1949.

Majulah Singapura was created by Indonesia-born Singapore composer Zubir Said (1907 – 1987) in 1958 as a theme song for the then-City Council of Singapore. Due to its popularity, Dr Toh shortlisted the song and requested Zubir to modify the lyrics and melody to suit the newly-born republic.

In 1965, when Singapore split from Malaysia to become an independent country, the Singapore flag and Majulah Singapura were officially adopted as the national flag and national anthem.

Against Communism

Prior to independence, Dr Toh, along with other Old Guard Leaders, was deemed supportive of the controversial Operation Cold Store, initiated by the Internal Security Council (ISC). The objective was to dissolve any communist groups within the country that were likely to cause violence or destabilise the establishment of Malaysia in 1963. Externally, Indonesia was launching the Konfrontasi against the proposed Malaysia union.

However, the operation was protested widely as a discriminated crackdown against the opposition. Opposition leader Barisan Sosialis’ secretary-general Lim Chin Siong and many others were detained and arrested just before the 1963 general elections.

Other Political Positions

After his role as the Deputy Prime Minister, Dr Toh was appointed as the Minister of Science and Technology (1968 – 1975) and the Minister of Health (1975 – 1981). He stepped down from the Cabinet in 1981 and continued to serve his ward at Rochore for another seven years.

As a Member of Parliament (MP), Dr Toh became the critic of his own party PAP, regularly involved in debates and criticism of new policies.

Debate on Policies

Dr Toh Chin Chye was known for his outspoken views, most notably on the debate on the Medisave scheme in 1983 in which he argued that healthcare should be the government’s primary responsibility. He was so against the idea that he abstained himself from voting for the approval of the scheme in the parliament.

Dr Toh also debated against the raising of the withdrawal age of CPF (Central Provident Fund) in the parliament in the mid-eighties. In 1984, Howe Yoon Chong, then Minister of Health (1982 – 1984) and Member of Parliament for Potong Pasir (1979 – 1984),  proposed the CPF withdrawal age to be raised from 55 to 60, in order to deal with a greying population. Soon, the CPF minimum sum was implemented, contribution rates were cut and withdrawal age would eventually be raised to 60 by 1993. The unpopular decision backfired, causing PAP to lose votes and ultimately concede Potong Pasir to the independent Chiam See Tong.

Dr Toh retired from politics in 1988 and passed away peacefully in his sleep at an age of 90 on the morning of 3rd February 2012.

Published: 03 February 2012

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The Disappearing Chee Pow Kai and Hum Chim Peng

It takes years of effort and determination to build a reputable brand. But sometimes, luck plays an important part too. There are many decades-old local famous and popular names that, for certain reasons, find it difficult to carry on their trades in this modern era.

The Union Farm Eating House, located off Clementi Road beside Maju Camp, goes all the way back to 1953 when Clementi was still very much a rural place. It was started by Chia Sek Hong who had his own poultry farm. He later created the eating house’s signature dish of chee pow kai (paper wrapped chicken), made popular for more than five decades!

Come mid-February, the 59-year-old kampong-styled eating house will walk into history. The reason is due to the expansion of the nearby campus of Singapore Institute of Management (SIM), where the land has been unknowingly used by Union Farm as a kitchen for decades.

Fans of this makan place love the rustic and undisturbed surrounding, with a nostalgic kampong touch that reminds them of the past. Others would criticise the steep prices and the oiliness of the chee pow kai. Whatever the reasons, the eating house is definitely considered successful after operating for so many decades. I’m sure many will miss this unique place when it eventually closes down.

And who can forget the famous hardworking old uncle at Maxwell Market’s Hum Jin Pang stall? For 6 or 7 pieces of deep fried doughs, a packet of these sweet or salty snacks, some stuffed with bean paste, cost only $1 each. Despite the inflation, their prices remained stagnant for many years. And the fun part is that customers can choose to fry their hum jin pang (or hum chim peng) themselves, using long chopsticks to stir the doughs in the large wok filled with boiling oil.

Maxwell Market started in the 1950s as a wet market but became a hawker center in the eighties to house the hawkers from China Street. The old uncle was likely to have started his business there (according to his signboard).

Today, the hum chim peng uncle is no longer around, but luckily his legacy is passed on to his daughter. The images of the hardworking uncle doing his work quietly will likely be remembered by many of his regular customers.

But in a world of rising cost and rents, it makes one wonder how long will such businesses with low profit margins survive?

Some other trades are not so lucky. Unable to find suitable successors, or due to declining revenues, some old brands and shops in Singapore have already walked into the history books.

Traditional Teochew confectionery store Thye Moh Chan at Geylang Lorong 27 decided to call it a day in September 2011 after operating for 68 years. Established in 1943 initially at Liang Seah Street, the shop had been run by three generations. And even so, the last owner, grandson of the shop’s founder, found it difficult to keep it going. He and his team of workers were already in their sixties and seventies, and the issues of manpower and successor had been bothering the boss in recent years.

The famous Sunset Grill & Pub located at a rustic and quiet corner of Seletar Airbase East Camp was something different from a typical makan place in Singapore.

Although the direction to this well-hidden place was challenging, the simple restaurant of Western food still attracted many patrons, especially on a cool evening during the weekends.

The ulu Seletar Airbase and Camp have remained largely unchanged for some 70-plus years since it was completed in 1928. However, its quiet and peaceful environment finally came to an end in 2010 when it was designated to be redeveloped as Singapore’s new Aerospace Hub. More than half of its iconic black and white colonial houses had been identified to be demolished. Sunset Grill & Pub, needless to say, was also affected. It was closed down in late 2011.

In late 2011, old fashioned bookshop Clementi Bookstore has decided to close down after 30-plus years of existence at Clementi central. In fact, the whole area bounded by Clementi Avenue 3 has been drawn for redevelopment. The shops, as well as the iconic sparrow sand-based playground, have been emptied since October last year.

With wide selection of textbooks, reference materials and stationary, the bookshop was extremely popular among many generations of students studying nearby. But even for that they could not compete against the online book stores and the availability of reading materials on the internet.

Even the much larger Page One, specialised in art and design books and established in 1983, could not maintain its stronghold at home. The 29-year-old homegrown brand has decided to give up its flagship store at Vivocity in early 2012 due to soaring rents, and shift the focus to its other retail shops in China, Hong Kong and Thailand.

From cassette tapes to CDs, music lovers will not be too unfamiliar with Sembawang Music Centre. Operating for more than 20 years, it had been one of the leaders in the local retail music industry. Many students would save up their allowances to buy his or her favourite music albums from the store in the eighties and nineties.

Started from a humble shop at Sembawang Shopping Centre (hence its name) to several prime outlets at Raffles City, Thomson Plaza and Plaza Singapura, Sembawang Music Center could not avoid the popularity of digital music, resulting in their bankruptcy and eventual closure in 2009. During its heydays, it had some 26 outlets in Singapore.

The demand for space is also a headache for many businesses in land-scarce Singapore. Orchidville, Singapore’s largest orchid farm, faces the dilemma when the land it currently occupies is needed by Land Transport Authority (LTA) to build a depot for the upcoming Thomson Line.

Originally specialised in pig farming at Punggol, Orchidville’s towkay switched to orchid farming when they were relocated to Mandai in 1993. Now, after almost 20 years, they face the same problem again. If there are no suitable alternatives in finding the new site, Orchidville may have to close down or shift to the neighbouring countries.

The cluster of fish farms at Seletar West Farmway also faces the same problem of relocation. With the land needed for redevelopment in near future, the fish farms have little choices but to find their way out. Some, though, may have to shut down for good. Many of the farms have been doing their businesses at Seletar West Farmway for decades.

Wholesale and retail flower-selling Sinflora, which has established its trade along Jalan Kayu as early as 1979, will also be shifting to Tampines in March 2012.

At Hougang lark kok jio (six milestone), there is this old kopitiam called Nam Heng Restaurant, famous for its orh luak (fried oyster omelette) and Hokkien mee. The area now known as Kovan has seen tremendous changes especially in the past decade. Simon Road Camp was demolished in 2003, whereas the popular Simon Road Market (1948-1999) has been replaced by Kovan Residences. Even the iconic 50-plus-year-old kopitiam, situated at the junction between Simon Road and Upper Serangoon Road, could not escape the fate of urbanisation and was torn down recently.

Good things come and go. Guess that’s the way of life.

Published: 31 January 2012

Updated: 01 October 2012

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A Pictorial Gallery of Bronze Sculptures in Singapore

Many people have the perception that Singapore lacks arts and history, but in reality there are many beautiful bronze sculptures on our island. Some are pure artistic creations, a couple of them are rich in their historical values, while others tell stories of the early days of Singapore. Perhaps one can take a moment to admire the sculptures when he or she passes by one of them.

This list, containing only a small part of the collection of bronze sculptures in Singapore, is not in any chronological or alphabetical orders.

Sir Stamford Raffles, Victoria Concert Hall (1887)

Probably the most famous sculpture in Singapore, the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles was installed by the 14th governor of the Straits Settlements Frederick Weld (1823-1891) in 1887 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s reign. Initially located at the middle of Padang, it cost $20,446.10, an astronomical price during that era.

In 1919, during the 100th-year celebration of Modern Singapore, the statue was moved to its present-day location of the Town Hall. There was also another statue of Sir Stamford Raffles, made of stone and white in colour, along the Singapore River.

Thai Elephant, Old Parliament House (1864)

The black elephant statue in front of the Old Parliament House was given to Singapore in 1872 to commemorate the visit of Singapore by the King of Siam Somdech Phra Paramindr Maha Chulalonkorn (1853-1910) on 16th March 1871. It was the first ever foreign trip by a Siamese monarch, and he had another elephant sculpture gifted to Netherlands East Indies (present-day Indonesia).

Chulalonkorn, also called Rama V, was credited with the modernisation of Siam and his efforts in preventing the kingdom from being colonised by the West.

Farmer Toiling At The Field, Chong Pang (2003)

The vast area of Nee Soon saw its appearance developed from a rural estate to a vibrant new town. In the olden days, gambier, pepper, pineapple and rubber plantations covered much of Nee Soon. By the sixties, its main economic activity had changed to agriculture, with many villages engaging in fruit tree planting, vegetable farming, as well as the rearing of pigs and poultry.

Standing in front of the neighbourhood of Chong Pang, this statue of a farmer carrying water cans shows the perseverance and dauntless courage of our forefathers who had helped to shape this part of Yishun.

Bird, UOB Plaza (1990)

This huge plump bird is the work of Colombian figurative artist Fernando Botero (born 1932) in 1990. It is sponsored by United Overseas Bank Limited (UOB) and stands by the side of the Singapore River. Botero displays his unique style in most of his works where the figurines are proportionally exaggerated and fat.

The bird symbolises peace, serenity, joy of living and optimism, and with all these qualities, Singapore will continue to grow and prosper.

Progress & Advancement, Raffles Place (1988)

This grand sculpture is the work of Yang-Ying Feng, commissioned and donated on 8th August 1988 by local entrepreneur and founder of Overseas Union Bank Limited (OUB) George Lien Ying Chow (1907-2004).

Showing a detailed Central Business District (CBD) by the Singapore River, this 4m-tall sculpture signifies the progress and advancement of Singapore’s financial sector and stands at Raffles Place.

Dual Universe, Raffles Place (1994)

Sculptured by Charles O. Perry, this piece of abstract art is located in front of Singapore Land Tower of Raffles Place with description of “Two forms intertwine to become one as they whisper of the mysteries of space and time”.

Homage to Newton, UOB Plaza (1985)

Standing tall at UOB, this sculpture was cast in 1985 by Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dali (1904-1989), most famous for his painting The Persistence of Memory.

The ball falling from the right hand of the statue represents the falling of apple which led to Sir Isaac Newton’s discovery of gravity. The suspension of the “heart” indicates “open-heartedness” and the open head symbolises “open-minded”, which are two necessary qualities for the discovery of important natural laws as well as success for all human endeavours.

Struggle For Survival, Raffles Place (1988)

Shaped like a ship, this is the work of Hainan-born local sculptor Aw Tee Hong (born 1932). The materials used are actually copper, brass and iron instead of bronze. It is installed in front of OUB Centre in 1988.

Beside sculpting, Aw Tee Hong is also an expert in oil painting, Chinese calligraphy and opera mask painting.

Pioneering Spirit, Raffles Place (1988)

Another work of Aw Tee Hong, this piece of art is also known as Vitality of the Forerunner.

It is located in front of the Arcade, less than 50m away from Struggle For Survival, and is part of the three distinctive sculptures at the exit of Raffles Place Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) Station.

Reclining Figure, OCBC Building (1983)

One of the largest sculptures created by Englishman Henry Spencer Moore (1898-1986), this bronze sculpture, measures 9.45m by 4.24m and weighs 4 tonnes, was actually enlarged from his lead model of 1938.

The sculpture was commissioned by the Overseas-Chinese Banking Corporation (OCBC) in 1983 as a gratitude to the people of Singapore for their trust and support throughout its history.

Mother and Child, Tampines Central Park (1996)

The Grandfather of Singapore Sculpture Ng Eng Teng (1934-2001) produced three pieces of Mother and Child which reflects the tender love he experienced from his mother. This sculpture, located at Tampines Central Park, depicts a caring mother carrying a cheerful and secure baby.

One of Dr Ng’s Mother and Child sculptures was originally located outside Far East Shopping Centre in 1980, but has since moved to Orchard Parade Hotel. It was one of the iconic installation at Orchard Road in the eighties.

First Generation, Fullerton Hotel (2000)

A brilliant piece of work by Chong Fah Cheong (born 1946), this sculpture depicts scenes of early days of Singapore. Singapore River was once the lifeline of our country in the past, when the first migrant communities settled around here. It was not an uncommon sight to see naked boys swinging from trees beside the river and jumping into the water with gusto.

The boys learned how to avoid the muddy depths and the dangers of bumboats crossing the river, and had no fear of the polluted waters that were sometimes filled with garbage. When the Clean Rivers project was launched in 1983, families, hawkers and bumboats were removed from this area, and the innocent laughter of the swimming boys were heard no more.

Fishing At Singapore River, The Riverwalk (2004)

Taiwan-born sculptor Chern Lian Shan has been creating marvelous pieces of art since he settled in Singapore in 1980. “Fishing At Singapore River” is one of his works, which describes the life during the colonial times.

The native Orang Laut had earned their livelihood through fishing, before the Singapore River became a centre for trading upon the arrival of the British. When the city grew, the river was used as a dumping ground and sewer. By 1970, Singapore River was so polluted that all the fish had completely disappeared.

Marine life only returned more than a decade after the launching of the Clean Rivers project.

The River Merchants, Maybank Tower (2003)

This group of sculptures is another piece of Aw Tee Hong’s creations. Its shows a seated Alexandre Laurie Johnston, a prominent Scottish merchant of the early days, negotiating with a Chinese trader and a Malay chief, while the Indian and Chinese coolies were loading goods onto a bullock cart.

In 1820, Johnston had set up his company at the spot (present-day Maybank Tower), where the statues are currently standing. It was then commonly known as Tanjong Tangkap (means “catch” in Malay), because Johnston’s godown was nearest to the Singapore River’s mouth and he would be the first to “catch hold” of the merchant captains as their boats entered the river.

The highly respected Johnston was the also first chairman of the Chamber of Commerce, and he also introduced the five-foot way, a unique covered walkway of local traditional shophouses (other sources cited Sir Stamford Raffles as the one who proposed the five-foot way).

Tanjong Tangkap lasted until 1848 before it was replaced by the Flint Building. Whiteway Laldlaw & Co was built in its place in 1910 after the Flint Building was destroyed in a fire. The site has been occupied by Maybank Chambers (later Maybank Towers) since 1962.

A Great Emporium, Asian Civilisation Museum (2002)

When Sir Stamford Raffles established the trading post in Singapore, he wrote “our object is not territory but trade; a great commercial emporium.”

Sculptor Malcolm Koh gave a perfect description of the scene at the Singapore River during its heydays of a busy trading port. Commodities such as cotton, spices, rubber and tin were actively traded. It was a common sight to see European traders making deals with Chinese towkays, while Chinese pigtailed coolies and turban-wearing South Indian labourers doing the manual hard work of loading and unloading of the goods at the harbour.

The towkay would measure the weight of the goods by a traditional weighing scale called the daching, and then proceed in his negotiation with the traders from all around the world.

From Chettiars to Financiers, Asian Civilisation Museum (2002)

In the early days, many trading houses and financial businesses were set up along the Singapore River. The Bank of Calcutta was the first bank to be established here, in 1840. The Chettiars from South India were well-known for their successes in the moneylending business, while the Chinese working in the clearing houses made full use of their capabilities in the thriving trade between Singapore and China.

An interesting aspect of this sculpture is the inclusion of a lady stock trader in a modern dress. Appearing to be engaged in a business deal with the depiction of the early Chettiar and Chinese, sculptor Chern Lian Shan was brilliant in showing the transformation of the commercial area around Raffles Place and the Singapore River from the past to the present days.

Another Day, Singapore Art Museum (2004)

This is another piece of art by Chong Fah Cheong, who also created the excellent “First Generation”. It depicts two lean coolies having a simple meal after another day of hard work.

Coolies were bonded manual labourers assigned to work at the waterfront and warehouses often under harsh conditions during the colonial days. They had to work for long hours with little salaries, in which they saved up every penny to send back to their homelands in China. Many however would fall victims to addiction of opium and gambling. Their contributions certainly led to the rapid growth of the trading industry along the Singapore River.

Initially located at the Singapore Art Museum, this sculpture has been relocated several times since 2011.

Street Hawker, Far East Square (1999)

Taiwanese sculptor Lee Yun Hung created this work to describe the life of a street hawker, who was a common sight in Singapore from the thirties to early eighties.

This sculpture is an image of a “tick tock man”, who would use a bamboo stick to hit a hardwood rod, producing a rhythmic “tick tock tick tock” sound. It was certainly an innovative way to announce his arrival to the customers. In his baskets, there were homemade noodles with fish balls, a local Chinese hawker dish that remains popular till this day.

Singapura Cats, Cavenagh Bridge (1991)

The Singapura Cat is actually not a local breed but a controversial case of mix-up in the identification of the cat during the seventies. Americans Tommy and Hal Meadows had worked in Singapore in 1975, bringing in their cats before exporting to USA. Back home, they presented the cats as a new natural breed. However, Singapura Cats resemble nothing like the local stray cats found here.

Also known as the Singapore River Cat, Singapore Tourism Board (STB) decided to use the cat as a national mascot in 1990, calling it Kucinta, which was derived from the Malay words of kucing (cat) and cita (love). The name was proposed by Madam Ang Lian Tin, the winner of the naming competition held by STB.

As many as 15 sculptures of Singapura Cats were placed along Singapore River, but sadly many were vandalised by the public; one piece was even stolen. Three of them still stand at the corner of Cavenagh Bridge.

Simon Road Market Scene, Kovan (2010)

Standing in front of Kovan Residences along Upper Serangoon Road, these two bronze statues describe the early scene of the former Simon Road Market, where a lady buyer is bargaining in her purchase of some chicken and ducks.

The popular Simon Road Market was built in August 1948, initially at the nearby Lim Ah Pin Road before moving to where the sculptures stand today. Vegetable farmers from Potong Pasir and fishermen from Kangkar and Serangoon River would bring their products to this market for sale, and it was a common sight to see busy crowds doing their marketing in the early mornings everyday.

The market would later become a makan haven, serving delicious Hokkien Mee, Muah Chee, Pork Congee and Mee Rebus. However, it was demolished in 1999, with some of the stall holders moved to the markets in Hougang to continue their businesses.

Price of Peace, Bukit Chandu (1997)

It is a reminder of how the 1st and 2nd Battalion of the Malay Regiment helped the British in defending Bukit Chandu in the Battle of Pasir Panjang in 1942 during the Japanese invasion.

Malay lieutenant Adnan bin Saidi (1915-1942) led his troops in the stiff resistance against the Japanese despite heavily outnumbered and short of ammunition. He was eventually caught, brutally tortured and killed. Many of the defending forces perished, but their heroics in defending the country against the aggressors would forever be remembered.

Firemen, Central Fire Station

Before 1908, there were three small fire stations located at Beach Road, Hill Street and Cross Street. But they were insufficiently equipped to deal with large-scaled fire disasters.

By 1908, the Municipal Authorities recognised this problem and decided to built a modern Central Fire Station, which is now the oldest existing fire station in Singapore. Equipped with a watch tower, four portable water pumps, modernised fire engines and living quarters for the firemen, the station was considered a large improvement for professional fire-fighting in the early 20th century when fire hazards regularly plagued Singapore.

The Central Fire Station was gazetted as a national monument in 1998, and the sculptures here are installed for the recognition of the fire fighters and rescuers who risk their lives and go beyond the call of duty in protecting and saving lives and property for a safe and secure Singapore.

Sun Yat-Sen, Sun Yat-Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall (1937)

This statue of Sun Yat-Sen (1866-1925) sitting on a chair was gifted by Kuomintang (in China then) in 1937. It is situated right in front of the Sun Yat-Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall at Ah Hood Road in Balestier. There are several more Sun Yat-Sen’s bronze sculptures at the villa-turned-memorial hall such as the one below.

At the back of the villa, there is also a huge 60m-long and 2m-tall bronze wall mural, possibly Singapore’s longest bronze mural, with inscriptions depicting the history of Singapore from a fishing village to the Japanese Occupation. Completed in 2005, it took the sculptors from China six years of hard work.

St John Baptist de La Salle, Singapore Art Museum (mid 19th century)

Completed in 1996, the Singapore Art Museum is the former site of St Joseph’s Institution along Bras Basah Road.

St Joseph’s Institution had a long rich history, being founded by French priest Jean-Marie Beurel and a group of LaSalle Brothers in May 1852. The school was completed in 1867, and later expanded to include the Anderson Block in 1907 and the Chapel in 1912. During the Second World War, the school compound was used as a makeshift Red Cross Hospital. It was also briefly renamed as Bras Basah Road Boy’s School during the Japanese Occupation.

When St Joseph’s Institution moved to Malcolm Road in 1987, the sculpture of St John Baptist de La Salle (1651-1719), created by Italian sculptor Cesare Aureli, was left behind as a remainder of the school’s rich heritage. St John Baptist de La Salle was a priest who dedicated much of his life for the education of the poor children in France during the late 17th century.

Pope John Paul II, Cathedral of the Good Shepherd

Built between 1843 and 1847, the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd is the oldest Roman Catholic church in Singapore. It began as a church for the residents of the European Town, an area designated by Sir Stamford Raffles for the Europeans, Eurasians and wealthy Asians.

One of the early residents Denis Lesley McSwiney came up with the design of the church, which was heavily influenced by the Roman Doric style of architecture. In 1897, the church was elevated to the status of the cathedral. The compound was used as an emergency hospital during the Second World War and was gazetted as a national monument in 1973.

The bronze sculpture standing in the compound of the cathedral is the life-sized statue of Pope John Paul II (1920-2005), the second longest serving pope in history and one of the most influential leaders of the 20th century.

Indian Settlers of Telok Ayer, Telok Ayer Street

indian-settlers-of-telok-ayer-bronze-sculptures

Many Indian immigrants settled at the area between Telok Ayer and the southern bank of the Singapore River in the 19th century. Some of them worked as milk traders, and were often seen walking down Telok Ayer Street and carrying buckets of milk slung across their shoulders.

Other Indian Immigrants were lightermen, loading and unloading cargoes from the merchant ships that docked at the Telok Ayer Basin. The Al-Abrar Mosque and Nagore Durgha Shrine at Telok Ayer Street, two places of worship with significant historic values, were built by the Indian community in the vicinity.

Chinese Processions, Telok Ayer Street

chinese-processions-telok-ayer-bronze-sculptures

The Chinese immigrants shared the Telok Ayer Street with the Indian Immigrants in the 19th century. During the Chinese festivals, the streets would be adorned with colourful flags and banners, and elaborate street processions were carried out, where performers dressed in colourful costumes attracted thousands of spectators with their acrobats, decorated palanquins and musical bands.

Both the bronze sculptures of Indian Settlers of Telok Ayer and Chinese Processions were the masterpieces of local sculptor Lim Leong Seng (born 1950).

Heading Home, China Square Central (2013)

The realistic sculpture shows a rickshaw puller with a Peranakan lady setting off for home, portraying the clear divide between the rich and poor in early Singapore.

Rickshaws were a common form of transportation in the late 19th century and early 20th century, and the rickshaw pullers were mostly poor immigrants from southern China, who came to Singapore in search of a better life. Beside the tough work under the hot sun, they had to live in cramped cubicles in shophouses with poor hygienic conditions. Many, in the end, turned to opium for relief for their overworked bodies.

Budak-Budak, Orchard Road (2015)

Another masterpiece by Chong Fah Cheong, this bronze sculpture is displayed in front of The Heeren at Orchard Road. The Chee family, owner of The Heeren, commissioned the sculpture in 2015, as a commemoration of Singapore’s 50th birthday.

The sculpture depicts four budak-budak (“kids” in Malay) playing and helping each other to climb on top of the kamcheng, a traditional Peranakan covered porcelain jar used to store food. Symbolising wisdom and culture, the kamcheng often serves as a heirloom passed down the generations in a traditional Peranakan family. The children, with their boundless energy, represent the future generations.

Nutmeg & Mace, Orchard Road (2009)

Commemorating the history of Orchard Road, where it was once made up of vast nutmeg plantations, this giant sculpture by local artist Kumari Nahappan (born 1953), located outside of ION Orchard, displays the detailed appearance of a cut-opened nutmeg fruit. Nutmeg is the seed, whereas the reddish lacy covering of the seed is known as mace, and both are considered two spices from the same fruit of the nutmeg tree.

Celestial Earth, URA Centre (1999)

The Celestial Earth sculpture by Nanjing-born architect-turned-artist Sun Yu-Li, located at the exterior lobby of URA Centre, Maxwell Road, comprises the two elementary forms of a square cored from the centre of a circular frame.

This embodies the Confucian philosophy of “square within; circle without”, where the “square” depicts a focused aim grounded in firm principles whereas the “circle” conveys consideration for others.

Chapteh, Far East Square (2013)

Local sculptor Lim Leong Seng brought us back to the scene of old Amoy Street with his lifelike bronze sculptures of three children playing chapteh after class. Amoy Street had several schools in the 19th century, including Cui Ying Free School, built in 1854, and Anglo-Chinese School in 1886. Students were often seen playing around the street after school.

A traditional game popular in Asia and Southeast Asia, chapteh could be simply made of feathers attached to a rubber sole. Engaging in the challenges of balancing and kicking it in the air as long as possible using their feet had brought hours of fun and laughter to the children.

Chang Kuda, Botanic Gardens (2001)

Yet another beautiful sculpture by Chong Fah Cheong, portraying six boys horsing around, or playing “chang kuda” (chang means piggyback and kuda refers to horse in Malay), a popular game among kids living in the fifties and sixties. The sculpture expresses the joy on the children’s faces and their carefree days in those bygone eras.

Published: 28 January 2012

Updated: 6 November 2021

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Our Favourite Playgrounds of Yesteryears

How many of you have spent hours of your childhood playing in these sand-based playgrounds with local-styled designs? Many of them, built in the late seventies, are the works of Khor Ean Ghee (born 1935), Maria Boey, Lee Kwee Wah and Chew Chek Peng, the former in-house designers of the Housing and Development Board (HDB).

The memories of these playgrounds are precious to a whole generation of Singaporeans born between the seventies and eighties. Today, most of them were demolished, with only a few of them forgotten in the corners of the old estates. It is a matter of time before they vanish and be replaced by the new plastic playgrounds with rubber mats.

Deemed safer and more hygienic for the children, the new playgrounds have been installed all over the island since 1993. But their designs, which are almost identical to one another, seem to be lacking of some local elements.

Dragon Playgrounds

Arguably the most iconic locally designed playground, there are currently only four dragon playgrounds left in Singapore. Two can be found in Toa Payoh, one in Ang Mo Kio and a small one is located at Circuit Road.

The majestic dragon playground along Toa Payoh Lorong 6 still retains its originality with its sand box, while the other two dragons have been refurbished with rubber mats. With ladders, slides and a long metal body, it is ideal for the training of kids’ agility and their adventurous spirit. Not forgetting it is also a perfect place to play catching or police and thief.

Most of the dragon playgrounds were built between 1979 and the early eighties, and last slightly more than a decade before phasing out.

Pelican, Tortoise and Rabbit Playground

This is another iconic representative of local playgrounds. The pelican, tortoise and rabbit playground were once commonly found in many neighbourhoods. Today, only one is left standing at Dover Road, awaiting for demolition this year.

The pelican, covered with blue or red mosaic tiles, was like a mini fortress for kids, allowing them to climb through the hole to the top, or they could simple lie inside its “beak”. This playground used to be accompanied by a set of swings and a merry-go-round.

chai chee pelican playground 1990s

Vintage Animals Playground

Without any movable parts, this vintage playground is simply made up of stone structures in the shapes of duck (green), elephant (green) and horse (blue) where kids can ride on them. Likely to be built in the early seventies, its simple design reflects the innocence of that era. Located at Toa Payoh Lorong 8, it has brought joy to countless children of yesteryears.

Until the mid-nineties, Bukit Merah still retained a set of these colourful vintage animals.

Dove Playgrounds

Another design by Khor Ean Ghee in 1979, this dove playground is still around at the sleepy estate of Datoka Crescent. The concrete dove is linked by a metal bridge to a pyramidal structure fitted with rubber tyres as swings underneath.

The other remaining Dove Playground in Singapore, now refurbished with rubber mats, is situated between Block 219 and 230 at Bukit Batok. There is no bridge linked between the dove and the pyramidal structure.

Clementi used to have the dove playground too, but it was demolished many years ago.

Elephant Playground

At one end of the Pasir Ris Park, an elephant-themed sand-based playground is situated within the compound of the Home Team (NS) Pasir Ris Chalets. Also being built at the same period as the dragon, pelican and dove playgrounds, it still looks relatively new, probably due to its isolated location where few children, other than the chalet tenants, will visit.

With no duplicated design elsewhere in Singapore, the elephant playground with its trunk acting as slides is a unique piece of work on its own.

Sparrow Playground

A small sparrow-shaped playground sits quietly at Clementi central, between West Coast Town Council and Block 444. A large part of Clementi central has gone through a major facelift in recent years, except for this area. Most of the tenants and residents here have already moved out, and the demolition is expected to be completed by mid-2012.

Watermelon Playgrounds

Currently there are two watermelon playgrounds in Singapore; the one at Pipit Road is sand-based (near the baby dragon playground mentioned above) whereas the other at Tampines Central Park has been refurbished with rubber mats.

Creatively shaped like a slice of watermelon, the playground structures are decorated with red, white (or yellow) and green mosaic tiles to resemble the flesh and skin of a watermelon. There are also holes on the walls to represent the melon seeds.

Mangosteen Playground

The mangosteen playground is just 20m away from the watermelon playground at Tampines Central Park. It consists of two giant purple mangosteen-shaped domes linked together by a thick horizontal bar. The swings attached to the bar were removed years ago.

Pineapple Playground

The pineapple playground is one of the three fruity-themed playgrounds at Tampines Central Park, but it is also the only one that has been torn down recently in 2009/10.

Wonder why there are no playgrounds in the shape of durians, the unofficial national fruit of Singapore?

Clock Playground

Located at Bishan bus interchange, the clock playground looks like a page out of a fairy tale, with colourful appearance and bold curvatures. It is likely to be built in the early eighties together with the bus interchange when Bishan was being developed into a new town in 1982.

Another similar clock playground once stood in Pasir Ris. Somehow the numberings of the clocks were missing.

Sampan Playground

Sampans used to be a common sight at the Singapore River in the old times. The idea was being incorporated into the design of this unique playground near Pasir Ris’ Elias Mall. “Eyes” and tyres are also added, making it looks just like a real sampan.

Rickshaw Playground

Another brilliant design modelled after a significant local transport of the past, this rickshaw playground, however, was no longer around found in Singapore. In the nineties, there was one with two huge red wheels outside Yishun Town Council at Block 845.

Dinosaurs Playgrounds

Certainly an innovative yet weird design for a playground in Singapore, the dinosaur playground at Kim Keat Avenue is built in 2000. The structures are shaped after two tyrannosaurus and a stegosaurus. Daring kids can attempt to climb up the back of the mother tyrannosaurus.

At Fu Shan Garden of Woodlands Street 81, there is also an old dinosaurs-themed playground. The main characters here are two ouranosaurus and the long-necked brontosaurus. Children can slide down in between these prehistoric creatures made of stones.

Crocodile and Kangaroo Playground

tampines sun plaza park crocodile playground 1998

This was one fierce looking crocodile at the SunPlaza Park along Tampines Ave 7. Built in 1998, it was torn down recently and replaced by a new plastic playground. There used to be a kangaroo beside the crocodile too!

Teapot and Mushroom Playground

The teapot and mushroom playground was an award-winning design built at Woodlands Vista Park in 2001. It was done by the same design company that also created the Kim Keat dinosaur playground and the crocodile playground at Tampines. However, the teapot structure was replaced by a new plastic playground while the two mushroom seats are retained.

Adventure Playground

One of the most popular playgrounds among boys in the early nineties, the design of this playground is mainly made up of horizontal and diagonal metal bars, completed with two slides, swings and see-saws.

There is only one such playground left in Singapore today, standing inside the restricted compound of a HUDC (Housing and Urban Development Company) private estate called Lakeview Estate at Upper Thomson Road. (Editor Note: The photos are kindly provided by a reader named George Wong who has fond memories of this type of playground)

One of the favourite games that kids used to play in this playground was perhaps “catching”, or “police and thieves”, where the game was made difficult by having a rule that no one could come in contact with the sand, or he would be penalised.

As the height of the highest level was more than 3m, it could be quite dangerous for any kids to climb to the top. There were cases of children badly injured after falling off the bars, thus it is no wonder that this design was also being phased out like other local playgrounds.

In the nineties, there was a playground of the same design located near Yishun Avenue 6, and another situated at Block 144 Silat Road.

Train Playground

The interesting tilting train at the adventure playground is the product of an upgrade of the Tiong Bahru Park in 2000. Tiong Bahru Park was set up in 1967 to serve the residents of Tiong Bahru, Hendersen, Bukit Ho Swee and Bukit Merah.

Swings, See-Saws and Merry-go-rounds

Swings, see-saws and merry-go-rounds used to be integrated parts of local playgrounds. Due to safety concerns, they were slowly phased out, especially the large metal merry-go-rounds. Swings are still commonly seen but the wooden see-saws are a rarity nowadays. Below is a standalone set of swings at the junction of Jalan Kayu and Yio Chu Kang Road.

How many of you were ever bullied by some plump heavy kids who would sit on one end of the see-saw, leaving you suspended in the air at the other end? The old see-saws used to be made of long wooden planks, unlike the short ones found at the watermelon playground at Pipit Road.

Only three merry-go-rounds are left in Singapore. There is a yellow one at Tiong Bahru’s train playground, a large original type at the sleepy estate beside Begonia Road and the one at the Upper Seletar Reservoir has a non-traditional design.

Many of us will not forget the giddy sensation on a merry-go-round, where the naughty ones would frighten the others by pushing the merry-go-round at very high speed. For the kids, it was such an exciting yet dangerous experience.

Playgrounds Then And Now

The history of local modern playground goes back to more than 60 years back. It is interesting to see how the designs of our local playgrounds have changed over the decades.

A large part of the population still lived in kampong during the fifties and sixties so playgrounds were usually installed in the downtown. The playground at Hong Lim Park had monkey bars, a slide and a merry-go-round.

Swings and see-saws were the main attractions at this former playground located at Aliwal Street, near the former Chong Cheng/Chong Pun Primary Schools and the old Kampong Glam Community Centre.

A popular playground for many kids and students in the sixties, there were also public basketball and badminton courts nearby. The playground was prone to flooding during heavy storms, but that did not stop the playful children who would play with paper or wooden boats in the pools of water. Kite-flying was one of the favourtite pastimes for the teens in a hot sunny day.

The Aliwal Street Playground had since been torn down ages ago and replaced by an open-air carpark today.

When new towns were developed, playgrounds became essential facilities. This one was part of the estate when Toa Payoh was built in 1968.

Stunts of yesteryears would probably be deemed as too dangerous for kids today. In the past, bold boys and girls had no problem climbing up and sitting on bars 2m tall.

The local flavoured designs by Khor Ean Ghee from the seventies to eighties would probably go down as the representatives of playgrounds in the history of Singapore.

Moving into the nineties, beside the complete makeover in the designs of playgrounds, the materials used also switched from concrete to mainly plastic.

As the society progresses, what will the next generation of playgrounds look like? When they grow up, will our children have fond memories of their childhoods spent at the playgrounds? Only time will tell…

Last but not least, this is a modern playground in the abandoned estate of Neo Tiew.

Published: 06 January 2012

Updated: 11 September 2016

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Tribute to Singapore’s Mother Teresa (1898-2011)

Teresa Hsu Chih (许哲) was born in Swatow in 1898, during the Qing Dynasty, in an extremely poor family where her father abandoned the family. At aged 16, her family moved to Penang, Malaysia, where they found jobs as cleaners in a convent.

Teresa received her first formal education at 27, after joining the children classes at the convent. Eight years later, she left for Hong Kong and then Chongqing of China for a secretary job at a German news agency. By then, the Second World War had erupted on the full-scale, and the terrible sights of the wounded and casualties made Teresa determined to become a nurse.

When the Second World War ended in 1945, a 47-year-old Teresa went to London to study nursing for eight years. In the meantime, she also travelled around Europe to promote peace and help the needy. Teresa spent another eight years building homes for the aged and sick in Paraguay before returning to Penang.

In 1961, Teresa arrived at Singapore to become the matron of Kwong Wai Shiu Hospital. By then, she was already 61, but her dreams of helping the poor and sick were as strong as before. Four years later, she and her sister Ursula used their own money to start the Home for the Aged Sick. In addition, Teresa also bought several flats for the homeless.

By 1983, Teresa retired as the matron and left the home under the care by the Rotary Club. She continued her social works, setting up the non-profitable Heart-to-Heart Service to reach out for the single elderly, providing them with basic necessities and allowances. The talented lady, proficient in Mandarin, English, Malay, Teochew, Hokkien and Cantonese, had no problems communicating to the old folks of other races and dialects.

Dedicated her whole life in doing social works and helping the needy, Madam Teresa was truly a great person who won the respect from all, and the perfect inspiration for others in helping the less fortunate of our society. The selfless centenarian did not stop her charitable role even after turning 110, where her life philosophy was “The world is my home, all living beings are my brothers and sisters, selfless service is my religion”.

On 7th December 2011, Madam Teresa, then the oldest living Singaporean, passed away peacefully at her Hougang home at an age of 113. She would be well-remembered by many for her legacy.

Also read: Madam Teresa Hsu: Never too old to care for the others

Published: 14 December 2011

Updated: 14 July 2019

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A Walk Through The Old Neighbourhood – Redhill Close

Redhill Close is a small estate of 21 blocks of flats numbered 1 to 3 and 5 to 22. There is no block 4 found. Many would think this is due to the number being considered inauspicious for the Chinese, but the fact is block 4 was demolished to make way for the construction of a new road.

Like the old Tiong Bahru flats, Redhill Close’s pinkish blocks, nicknamed “chek lau” (seven-storey in Hokkien), and designed with trapezoid roofs, curved-top facades and residential units at the ground floors, were built in 1955 by the Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT), which means they have witnessed the development of Redhill for 55 years.

When the flats were first built, they were rented at a monthly rate of $52 to the residents previously living at the kampong in Redhill. This rental policy lasted until 1982, after which the flats were sold to their occupants so that the long-time residents could at last have their own units.

The peaceful estate is located between the popular Redhill Market, famous for its satay bee hoon and prawn noodles, and the Bukit Merah Food Centre, which is on the other side of the busy Jalan Bukit Merah and serves delicious chicken rice, fishball noodles and fish soup.

There is a famous Malay myth about how Redhill, or Bukit Merah (literally means hill red), got its name. In the past, the coast of Singapore was infested by fierce swordfish. The villagers and fishermen would be attacked if they ventured near the water. A little boy called Hang Nadim proposed a solution for the Sultan, which was to build barriers made of banana tree trunks along the affected coast.

When the swordfish tried to attack the villagers again, their pointed beaks pierced through the barriers and were trapped immediately. The smart boy became popular among the villagers, inviting jealousy from the Sultan. Fearing his rule would be threatened in the future, he sent his soldiers to kill the boy who lived on top of a hill. The poor boy’s blood flew down the hill, soaking the whole hill red.

Redhill, also fondly called ang sua by the Chinese, actually once referred to a larger hill at present-day Henderson estate. In fact, the whole Bukit Merah lies on a stretch of hilly plains, where the highest point is Mount Faber at 105m high. Years of development have seen the hill near Henderson trimmed down to the current size and the Malay kampongs replaced by the flats at Redhill Close in the fifties.


A large part of the area at Redhill, Hendersen and Tanglin Halt were allocated for industrial use during the sixties. Glass manufactor, liquor distillery and food, garment and perfume factories once thrived here.

In the early seventies, HDB built many flats for the poor and old folks at Bukit Merah View, just beside Redhill Close separated by Hendersen Road. The one-roomed flats were fully subsidised by the social welfare service.

The National Day Parades (NDP), usually held at the Padang (1966-1974) and the National Stadium (1976-2006), were organised at decentralised locations in the period between 1975 to 1983. In 1975, Redhill was selected as one of the sites for the decentralised event for the NDP. The contingents of army, navy, air force, police and other uniform groups and unions assembled and marched on a big open field at Redhill.

A stretch of the current 3.5km-long Jalan Bukit Merah, the main road here, was known as Silat Road in its early days. In 1924, The former Sikh Police Contingent built the Silat Road Sikh Temple (Gurdwara Sahib Silat Road) along the road, which has the largest Sikh temple dome in the world. It also houses the tombstone of the famous anti-British Sikh revolutionary Bhai Maharaj Singh Ji (died 1856), shifted to the temple from Singapore General Hospital (SGH) in 1966. During the Second War World, the Sikh Temple served as a refuge for Indian women and orphans.

A small Chinese temple called Tang Suahn Kiong San Soh Hoo Chu Temple, previously the second oldest temple in Singapore after Thian Hock Keng Temple (built in 1842), once stood at Henderson Road, but it was torn down in 1978 to make way for a swimming pool. The temple trustees and devotees appealed to the authority without success to conserve the 120-year-old temple. It was built in 1858 and worshiped Kwan Kong, the God of War.

Recently, the flats at Redhill Close are selected for the Selective En-bloc Redevelopment Scheme (SERS). The estate has gone through the Main Upgrading Programme (MUP) in the nineties, adding an extra space at the kitchen and having the lifts upgraded, but that cannot stop the prime residential land from being used for redevelopment.

Many residents, most of them elderly, express sadness in having to move from the place they have called home for decades. Some of the prominent residents include the former samsui women who had contributed massively to the construction sector of Singapore from the fifties to the sixties. New replacement units at nearby Henderson Road will be prioritised for them.

Published: 08 December 2011

Updated: 03 December 2012

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