Goodbye Bukit Timah Market and Hawker Centre

On the last day of September 2024, the Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre will be officially closed, spelling the end of its history that spans almost half a century.

Built in 1975 at a cost of $1.4 million, the double-storey Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre houses a wet market and shops on its ground floor, and hawker stalls at the second level. In total, there are almost 180 market and hawker stalls.

It was first used for the relocation of the street hawkers plying along Jalan Jurong Kechil in the sixties and seventies. The hawker centre later became a popular eating place among food lovers with its delicious carrot cake, satay bee hoon, Hokkien mee, chicken rice and other local delights.

The prices of the hawker food at Bukit Timah Food Centre in the late seventies were $1 for a plate of carrot cake, 80c for char kway tiao and 70c for a bowl of fishball soup.

Several Bukit Timah Food Centre’s foodstalls are almost as old as the hawker centre itself. The likes of Sin Chew Satay Bee Hoon, Xie Kee Hokkien Mee, Seng Heng Hainanese Chicken Rice, Yong Seng Satay and He Zhong Carrot Cake are now helmed by the second or third generations, passed down by their parents or grandparents who had started as street hawkers, before shifting to Bukit Timah Food Centre in the late seventies or eighties.

In 1977, some of the vacant stalls at Bukit Timah Market were allocated to the owners who lost their stalls in the nearby Beauty World Market fire.

Rude and rowdy hawkers were a concern for the Environment Ministry in the late seventies. In 1978, Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre topped the ministry’s list for the most cases of incidents; it had two cases for fighting between hawkers, and one for alleged rudeness to customers. The Boat Quay Food Centre, Empress Place Food Centre and Esplanade Satay Club each had two cases of rude hawkers.

Hence, an amendment to Environmental Public Health (Hawkers) Regulations was passed in April 1978 with a new law enforced. Under this new law, stallholders could have their licenses suspended, cancelled or revoked for offenses such as gambling, fighting, vandalism and harassment to customers in the market or hawker centres. The hawkers were also not allowed to stop customers who had the rights to the free sitting at any tables and chairs in the markets and hawker centres.

In the same year the new law kicked in, a total of 22 hawkers from various markets and hawker centres in Singapore received warnings from the Environment Ministry.

In July 1983, a pressure cooker at one of Bukit Timah Food Centre’s stalls suddenly exploded, damaging the roof and injuring seven people, including the stallholder’s children and several customers.

In 1985, Bukit Timah Market was one of the nine wet markets in Singapore to debut the sale of frozen pork to consumers. It was part of the “Eat Frozen Pork” campaign as Singapore was targeting to entirely phase out pig farms by the end of the eighties.

In the eighties, just a decade after its opening, Bukit Timah Food Centre was rated as one of Singapore’s dirtiest hawker centres. In 1985, the building was bothered by a persistent pungent smell due to three drainages choked by the garbage and oily remnants of food dumped by irresponsible hawkers. In 1988, a news article criticised the hawker centre as a dirty and oily place infested with rats.

The poor hygienic issues finally got resolved when the hawker centre was closed for repair works, repainting and cleaning up of stalls from July to September 1988. The roof was also replaced to allow better ventilation. When Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre was reopened for business later that year, it was reported that there was a marked improvement in the cleanliness and orderliness.

In 1990, Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre’s toilets, along with the ones at Chomp Chomp (Serangoon Gardens), East Coast Lagoon Food Rendezvous and Taman Serasi Food Centre, were upgraded to new modern ones.

Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre was closed for two months in 1997 for upgrading works. In late 2002, it was renovated again under the Hawker Centres Upgrading Program.

The hawker centre’s roof was modified into a higher wing-shaped design to allow better ventilation. The tables were changed to rectangular ones with side extensions to merge with adjacent tables. The renovation works cost $4 million, and the rejuvenated Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre was officially reopened on 8 March 2003.

In a 2003 survey, Singaporeans voted Bukit Timah Market as their favourite market. Maxwell Food Centre was voted as the locals’ favourite hawker centre and Best Coffee Shop at Jurong West was the favourite kopitiam.

Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre will be demolished after its closure in end-September 2024. Replacing it will be a new five-storey integrated development expected to be ready by 2029. This new building will comprise Bukit Timah Community Club, a school indoor sports hall and a new market and food centre.

Half of the existing stallholders at Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre, meanwhile, will be relocated to a temporary site at the nearby Jalan Seh Chuan to continue their businesses.

A last look at Bukit Timah Market and Food Centre:

Published: 29 September 2024

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Our Favourite Soft Drinks of Yesteryears

We used to call our favourite soft drinks bok zwee or hor lan zwee (“bottled water” or “Holland water” in Hokkien), or ang sai that refers to Fraser & Neave (F&N) orange juice (“red lion” in Hokkien; referring to the F&N logo displayed on their glass bottles).

For most of the ordinary folks, soft drinks in the past were not an everyday item, but a luxurious treat reserved only for the festivals, weddings, birthdays or other joyous occasions. It delighted the kids most, who would look forward to have their favourite fizzy or orangey taste of the soft drinks.

In general, soft drinks refer to non-alcoholic drinks, particularly those that are carbonated (or “aerated” before the mid-20th century). Coca Cola was introduced to the world in the 1890s, and still remains as one of the most popular soft drink brands today.

In Singapore, the range of soft drinks varied from the colas (Coca Cola landed in Singapore before the Second World War and Pepsi Cola in 1953) and fruit-based carbonated drinks (for example F&N Orange, Framroz, Sinalco, Green Spot) to the non-carbonated traditional drinks (such as Yeo Hiap Seng’s chrysanthemum tea, Dixon soyabean milk, herbal tea).

Some strong brands have flourished for decades, and remain successful till this day. Some were popular for only a few years, while a number had already vanished into history.

In 1980, the total manufacturing output of soft drinks in Singapore reached 130 million litres, almost doubled from the 77.6 million litres recorded a decade earlier in 1970. In the 1987 data collection by the Economic Development Board (EDB), Singaporeans gulped down an incredible 235.6 billion litres of soft drinks in that year, almost 2,000 times more than the 1980’s figure in the manufacturing output volume of soft drinks.

The popularity of these soft drinks, however, peaked between the eighties and 2000s, before many Singaporeans became health conscious enough to voluntarily cut down on the intake of these sweetened drinks.

Early Aerated Water Manufacturers

Prior to 1880, there were no manufacturers in Singapore producing soft drinks on a large scale. In 1883, John Fraser (1843-1907) and David Chalmers Neave (1845-1910) cofounded The Straits Aerated Water Company, which was converted into a limited liability company in 1889 known as Fraser & Neave (F&N). F&N’s long and successful legacy continues till this day.

In the early 20th century, the Seletar Springs was discovered and this led to the formation of The Singapore Hot Spring Limited that produced aerated waters for a number of years. The company, together with the springs, was then bought over by F&N to produce their star products in Vichy Water and Zom.

A couple of short-lived aerated water manufacturers, such as Harbour Aerated Water Factory (at Middle Road) and Oriental Aerated Water Factory, existed in the 1910s.

Three major aerated water manufacturers rose to challenge F&N during the pre-war period. They were Framroz, Popular Aerated Water Works and Phoenix Aerated Water Works.

Framroz was cofounded in 1904 by Phirozshaw Manekji Framroz (1877-1960) and Navroji Rustamji Mistri (1885-1953). Both of them were Parsi who came to Singapore from Bombay in the early 20th century. The Framroz brand lasted until the seventies (more information about Framroz below).

In 1924, a Chinese firm named The Imperial Aerated Water Company was established. It shifted to a larger premises at Tanjong Pagar’s Choon Guan Street in 1928 and was renamed The Popular Aerated Water Works Ltd. Under its new “Popular” name, its soda water was advertised with catching slogans such as “as refreshing as a dip in the sea“, “when the night’s devilish hot” and “knock the spots out of old sol (sun)“.

The company, however, went into liquidation and was acquired by prominent businessman and community leader Lee Choon Seng (1888-1966) in 1933.

The Phoenix Aerated Water Works was started by Navroji Mistri in 1925 at Anson Road. This soured his relationship with Framroz and resulted into a years-long court case that ultimately ruled in Mistri’s favour.

In just a few years, Phoenix Aerated Water Works’ business expanded and began exporting its soda water, mineral spring waters, flavoured sweet drinks and fruit beverages to Malaya, Java, Sumatra, Borneo and India. The company lasted for almost half a century, before it was eventually wound up in 1972.

By the 1930s, there were as many as nine registered aerated water manufacturers in Singapore, with a large portion of the market shares dominated by F&N, Framroz, Popular and Phoenix. Together, the aerated water manufacturers in Singapore produced an estimated 25 million bottles of aerated waters a year in the 1930s.

One smaller aerated water manufacturer that later grew to become the largest Chinese manufacturer of aerated water products in Singapore was the National Aerated Water Company. Started in 1929, it was able to produce popular orange juice, pineapple juice and sarsaparilla (root beer) after years of research.

By 1950, National Aerated Water Company’s daily production rose to more than 30,000 bottles, sold mostly to local consumers. Its Art Deco-style factory, built in 1954, was an iconic landmark along Serangoon Road for more than 60 years. The building was conserved in 2017 to become part of the new private condominium named Jui Residences.

Another major player in the local soft drink industry was the Eastern Aerated Water Company. The company had eight delivery trucks and more than 100 employees in 1950.

By 1951, Eastern Aerated Water Company’s Geylang Road factory was able to ramp up its production to 1 million bottles a month (or about 33,000 a day), similar to National Aerated Water Company’s daily production. It sold 16 kinds of soft drinks, including its house brands of Eastern Cola and Eastern Aerated Water, in both Singapore and Malaya in the fifties and sixties.

Singapore’s economy gradually recovered after the war, and this helped to lift the local soft drink industry. The bottling of soft drinks also evolved; while many of the drinks continued to be produced in glass bottles with metallic caps, aluminum cans were beginning to be widely used in the sixties.

Consumers were spoiled for choice when competitive soft drink brands, both local and foreign, flooded the Singapore market in the sixties and seventies. Among the popular ones were F&N, Coca Cola, Pepsi Cola, Framroz, Eastern Cola, Eastern Aerated Water, Long Bros, Suka, Sinalco, Kickapoo Joy Juice, Royal Crown Cola, 7-Up, Bubble Up, Mirinda and Green Spot.

Popular Soft Drink Brands

Framroz

Framroz was manufactured by Framroz Aerated Water Factory, first located at Cecil Street and later shifted to Telok Ayer Street. In the 1930s, the soft drink manufacturer claimed to be one of the first in Singapore to sell fruit juice in aerated form, including its popular Orange Smash, Pineapple Smash, Strawberry Smash and Raspberry Smash.

Framroz’s products were exported regionally to Malaya, Java, Sumatra and Borneo. Locally, its largest customers were the British military, institutes, and civil and military hospitals in Singapore.

In 1952, Framroz moved again, this time to Jalan Besar’s Allenby Road where it stayed until the end of its business in the seventies. Its Crown Orangia and Crown Pine Smash were heavily marketed as part of its carbonated and non-carbonated drinks made from imported fruits from California.

The company and brand peaked in the fifties and sixties, selling as many as 16 types of soft drinks with 11 flavours. Framroz’s fortune, however, declined in the late sixties and, despite an acquisition attempt in 1972 by another local food company Ben Foods, it was not able to survive past the seventies.

Sinalco

Famous German soft drink Sinalco was introduced in Singapore in the early 1950s and quickly gained popularity among Singaporeans with its unique taste that resembles a mixture of orange, lemon, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry and pineapple juices.

The name Sinalco is derived from the combination of the Latin words sine (“without”) and alcohole (“alcohol”), indicating that its drinks are non-alcoholic. Its Chinese name “鲜拿果” literally means fresh fruits.

Bottled by the National Aerated Water Company, the soft drink made its debut in 1953 at the Sinalco booth in the Great Eastern Trade Fair. The company’s $500,000 Serangoon Road factory was upgraded in 1954 with new machinery and technologies imported from Britain and the United States for more efficient bottling process.

National Aerated Water Company built another $350,000 factory at Kuala Lumpur in 1964 to bottle Sinalco. This production was solely to meet the Malaysia market’s increasing demands.

In 1965, a new variation of Sinalco, called Sinalco-Kola, was introduced globally. Another new version Sinalco Special was launched in the late seventies. Sinalco remains the oldest soft drink brand in Europe today, although its popularity in Singapore has considerably waned since the nineties.

Kickapoo Joy Juice

Kickapoo Joy Juice, a citrus-flavoured soft drink, was another popular product bottled by the National Aerated Water Company.

The name first appeared in Li’l Abner, an American comic strip that ran from 1934 to 1977. The Straits Times carried this comic strip in its papers during the sixties and seventies, raising public awareness of the name and drink (although it was depicted as an alcoholic drink in the comic). Some of the comic characters printed on the drink bottles became a recognisable part of the brand.

Kickapoo Joy Juice was introduced to the Southeast Asian markets after the mid-sixties. In Singapore, its refreshing taste was generally well-liked, making it a popular must-have drink during festivals or on a hot day.

Green Spot

Green Spot was created as an American orange-flavoured soft drink in 1934. Making its debut in Singapore in 1939, it was sold at the luxurious hotels and cafes and advertised as a refreshing and invigorating drink made from “cane sugar and pure juice of fresh sun-ripened oranges“.

Green Spot became readily available to the common folks after the war, when Amoy Canning obtained the franchise rights to bottle the soft drink on a massive scale.

Founded in Amoy (Xiamen) of China in 1908, Amoy Canning started with soya sauce made from its home-made recipes. In 1949, the company expanded to Singapore with the building of a $1.5 million factory at Bukit Timah Road 8th milestone. Equipped with a modern bottling machine known as the premix gravity filler, Amoy Canning was able to produce 8,000 cases, or 192,000 bottles, of Green Spot everyday.

Besides Green Spot, Amoy Canning’s star products were Bubble Up, a lemon-lime-flavoured soft drink, and Dixon, a non-carbonated soya bean drink. Bubble Up was brought into Singapore from the United States in the sixties.

In 1994, Amoy Canning relocated its factory to Chin Bee Avenue in Jurong. It then shifted to its current premises at Bukit Batok in 2016. The century-old company is currently helmed by the fourth generation of the founder’s family.

Mirinda

Mirinda, originated from the United States and introduced by Pepsi Cola International, made its debut in Singapore in 1957. Three years later, the company worked with local franchised bottler Union Pte Ltd, established at Havelock Road in 1950, to supply Pepsi Cola, Schweppes and Mirinda to the Singapore and Malaya markets.

In 1969, Union moved to a new factory at Woodlands. Occupying a large area of 6,500 square metres, the factory was equipped with modern pre-mix machinery that were able to produce as many as 60 million bottles each year. Former Education Minister Ong Pang Boon (born 1929) officiated the opening of Union’s factory on 1 July 1969.

Mirinda Orange and Mirinda Lemon-Lime were sold in the sixties. In 1975, Pepsi Cola introduced a new flavour in Mirinda Strawberry. An aggressive one-month campaign was launched, with almost $180,000 worth of the new soft drink given away at several major public places such as supermarkets, swimming pools and the National Stadium.

The local bottling of Pepsi Cola and Mirinda was taken over by Yeo Hiap Seng in the late seventies. A fourth taste – Mirinda Sarsi – was introduced to the local market in the late seventies.

This, however, led to a legal battle between Yeo Hiap Seng and F&N over the use of the name “sarsi“. The High Court eventually ruled in Yeo Hiap Seng’s favour in August 1980.

Other than Mirinda, Yeo Hiap Seng also brought in two more soft drinks for the local market in the late seventies. They were the Canada Dry, a Canadian soft drink well-known for its ginger ale, and Wink, an American soft drink that offered two flavours in apple and orange.

Fanta

Carbonated fruity soft drink Fanta originated from Germany in 1941 during the Second World War. Due to the United States’ trade embargo of Nazi Germany, Fanta was created by Coca Cola’s German factory as an alternate option to the popular Coca Cola. After the war, Coca Cola took back the factory as well as Fanta’s trademarks.

Fanta’s most popular flavour Fanta Orange was created in 1955. By the sixties, the soft drink had landed in Singapore and its bottling rights went to F&N, which already had been bottling for Coca Cola since 1936. Fanta introduced more flavours – grape, strawberry and fruitade – in the seventies.

In 1992, F&N and Coca Cola entered a joint venture to become F&N Coca Cola, with F&N holding 75% of the shares. To strengthen the new brand, F&N considered dropping Fanta Orange so that it could concentrate in selling only one orange drink – F&N Orange – to the local and regional markets. The plan did not materialise and Fanta Orange continued to be a popular soft drink in Singapore for the rest of the nineties.

Coca Cola vs Pepsi Cola

In the mid-eighties, the fierce rivalry between Coca Cola and Pepsi Cola, dubbed as the Cola War, spilled over from the United States to Singapore.

Coca Cola in the early eighties had introduced a new taste that became known as the new Coke. This move did not go too well with the consumers, and it forced Coca Cola to bring back the original taste under the name Coca Cola Classic. Pepsi Cola took the opportunity to mock their rival, claiming “it took us 87 years to beat the old Coke, but it only took us 87 days to beat the new Coke.

In Singapore, things would turn out to be quite different. Coca Cola seemed to gain the upper hand when McDonald’s, established here since 1979, switched from Pepsi to Coke in 1985.

Other major fast food chains in Singapore that served Coke in the eighties were Kentucky Fried Chicken, Burger King, Wendy’s, Hardee’s, Orange Julius and A&W. In comparison, only Pizza Hut, Milano’s Pizza, Long John Silver’s and Big Rooster served Pepsi.

7-Up vs Sprite

A major shakeup happened in 1986 when Yeo Hiap Seng was awarded the 7-Up franchise by Pepsi Cola. First introduced in Singapore in 1960 by Lion Ltd, a subsidiary of F&N, 7-Up grew to become Singapore’s leading lemon-lime soft drink brand in the eighties.

F&N then went on to take over the Sprite franchise previously under Cold Storage. Sprite was owned by the Coca Cola company. The late eighties witnessed the intense “lemon-lime battle”, as F&N’s Sprite competed with Yeo Hiap Seng’s 7-Up and Mirinda Lemon-Lime for the market shares. The “lemon-lime battle” was considered an extension to the Cola War between Coca Cola and Pepsi Cola.

In 1991, Pepsi Cola collaborated with Warner Bros and superstars to market its soft drinks. Pepsi Cola was endorsed by the likes of Michael Jackson, Madonna and Tina Turner, whereas Bugs Bunny and Looney Tunes characters were used to promote Mirinda, and 7-Up represented by popular cartoon character Fido Dido.

Change of Taste

Not all soft drinks enjoyed success in Singapore. In the eighties, Cold Storage, franchised bottler for Sprite, A&W Root Beer and Magnolia, introduced a mint drink that did not go down well among the Singaporeans. In 1982, an orange-flavoured barley drink was withdrawn from the market after only three months.

Meanwhile, more Singaporeans had become health conscious. There were concerns about the soft drinks’ sugar level, use of artificial sweeteners and the effect of caffeine on children.

In 1992, the major drink manufacturers in Singapore pledged to reduce the sugar content of their drinks in order to fight obesity in schools. The sugar level in their drinks would gradually be reduced from 10% to 8%. In the same year, the canteens of the schools, technical education and tertiary institutes in Singapore were instructed to stop selling Coca Cola, Pepsi Cola and other soft drinks with more than 10% sugar level.

The nineties and 2000s saw more beverage choices for the local consumers, such as isotonic drinks, ice blended coffee and bubble tea. On the other hand, soft drinks, despite the availability of sugar-free versions such as Diet Coke and Diet Pepsi, never quite shook off their unhealthy image and reputation. This led to a general consensus that soft drinks should not be consumed on a regular basis.

A list of popular soft drinks in Singapore throughout the years:

Soft Drink

Debut in Singapore

F&N

1883

F&N was established to produce carbonated soft drinks

Zombun

1909

Made by Singapore Hot Spring Ltd using Sembawang Hot Spring water

Zom

1920s

Introduced by F&N using Sembawang Hot Spring water

Vichy Water

1920s

Introduced by F&N using Sembawang Hot Spring water

Popular

late 1920s

Introduced by Popular Aerated Water Works

Lemonpop & Orangepop

1930

Lemon and orange juice-based soft drinks by Phoenix Aerated Water Works

Squeeze

1931

Orange juice-based soft drink by Popular Aerated Water Works

Marquisa

1932

Mixed fruit juice-based soft drink by Phoenix Aerated Water Works

Kasi Kola

1937

Bottled by Phoenix Aerated Water Works

Green Spot

1939

US orange-flavoured soft drink bottled by Amoy Canning Corp

Vimto

1930s

Advertised by F&N as a health fruit tonic that fought work weariness. Sold by Phoenix Aerated Water Works in the 1950s

Framroz

1930s

Known for its popular fruit juices in aerated form, such as Orange Smash, Pineapple Smash, Strawberry Smash and Raspberry Smash

Coca Cola

1930s

Popular US cola brand, bottled by F&N since 1936

Diet Coke

1985

Sugar-free Coca Cola, rebranded as Coke Light in the late 1990s

Cherry Coke

1986

Advertised with slogan of “Cherry Coke turns your world upside down”

Vanilla Coke

2003

Said to contain vanilla planifolia from South America

Coke Zero

2008

Sugar-free Coca Cola

Eastern Cola

1950

Introduced by Eastern Aerated Water Company

Pepsi Cola

1953

Popular US cola brand, advertised as “Tree of Life” beverage in the 1950s and bottled by Union Pte Ltd

Diet Pepsi

1985

Sugar-free Pepsi Cola

Pepsi Twist

2002

Lemon flavoured cola

Sinalco

1953

German soft drink bottled by National Aerated Water Company

Mirinda

Lemon-Lime

1957

US soft drink first bottled by Union Pte Ltd, then by Yeo Hiap Seng

Orange

1960s

Strawberry

1975

Sarsi

late 1970s

Kool-Aid

late 1950s

US soft drink in 4 flavours (orange, cherry, lemon, grape) and available in packet form for self making of soft drink

Suka

1960

US strawberry-flavoured non-carbonated soft drink bottled by Birely’s Ltd

7-Up

1960

US lemon-lime flavoured soft drink first bottled by Lion Ltd, then by Yeo Hiap Seng

Bubble Up

1960s

US lemon-lime flavoured soft drink bottled by Amoy Canning Corp

Kickapoo Joy Juice

1960s

Citrus-flavoured soft drink bottled by National Aerated Water Company

Fanta

Grape

1970

German soft drink bottled by F&N

Strawberry

1972

Fruitade

1975

Royal Crown (RC) Cola

1972

Bottled by National Aerated Water Company

Wink

1979

US apple and orange flavoured soft drink distributed by Yeo Hiap Seng

Sprite

1980

First distributed by Cold Storage, then by F&N

100 Plus

1983

Launched by F&N as part of its 100-year commemoration

Ferrarelle

1992

Italian sparkling mineral water distributed by Yeo Hiap Seng

Published: 7 September 2024

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Nostalgic Memories of East Coast’s Road Safety Park

To many, the Road Safety Park (present-day Road Safety Community Park) brings back fond nostalgic memories of their fun school excursions and carefree student days. More than a million local students had played the traffic games held at this 4-hectare park along East Coast Parkway since the early eighties.

Road Safety Park Project

Road safety was a major concern in the seventies. An average of 260 lives were lost in road accidents annually, with thousands more injured. About 33% of the total pedestrian casualties were children below the age of 15.

To tackle the issue, the Ministry of Education and Traffic Police came together to do a Road Safety Park project that would introduce road safety to the students as a way of life. It would also educate them the importance to abide by the traffic rules, be more road safety conscious and considerate to other road users. At the park, the students would learn traffic hand signals and the functions of traffic light junctions, zebra crossings, road signages and petrol kiosks.

The project gained support from various local organisations and companies such as General Insurance Association of Singapore, Singapore Turf Club, Shell Singapore, Post Office Savings Bank (POSB), Tan Chong & Sons Motor Company, McDonald’s Singapore, Cycle and Carriage and Mitsubishi Motors. Their sponsorships ensured the successful completion of the $1.3-million Road Safety Park in late 1980. On 11 January 1981, the new park was officially opened by then-Home Affairs Minister Chua Sian Chin.

In 1984, the Road Safety Park added a new $760,000 administrative block, with $250,000 of its construction cost sponsored by the Shaw Foundation. Initially built for the National Safety Council, it was handed over to the Traffic Police Command upon its completion. The block had a multi-purpose hall, offices, workshops and a snack bar.

First Road Safety Park

East Coast’s Road Safety Park, however, was not the first road safety-themed park in Singapore. In 1950, the Shell Group of Companies introduced the Shell Traffic Game to Germany and the popular game later spread to other large cities in Europe. It proved to be an effective method to train the young in road safety. The first traffic game came to Singapore in 1958, organised by Shell and sponsored by the Singapore Safety First Council.

A $75,000 course at Kallang Park was provided by the Singapore government for the Shell traffic game, which quickly became popular among the locals. However, it was discontinued in the mid-sixties as the Kallang course had to be demolished to make way for the new National Stadium. It was not until more than a decade later that another road safety course was built at East Coast.

Traffic Games for Students

The Road Safety Park was able to accommodate up to 300 students at any point in time. By 1991, a decade after the park’s opening, more than 600,000 Primary Three to Secondary Two students had participated at least once in the traffic games.

In the traffic games, the National Police Cadet Corps (NPCC) members were assigned with the roles of traffic marshals to guide their fellow students, who would play the roles of pedestrians, cyclists and go-kart drivers. The go-kart driver and cyclist roles were the most popular among the students.

Each participant was issued a route card, and those who completed the games without any traffic violations and penalty points were awarded proficiency certificates.

In June 1985, the park was opened to the public during the weekends to further spread the road safety message to families, elderly and young. The charges were $1 for a 45-minute g0-kart drive around the park, and 50c for a 45-minute bicycle ride. Pedestrians were free to stroll around the park.

The park would be fully opened to the public in 2010.

In the eighties, the Road Safety Park was also the venue for the Singapore Scout Association’s cadet scouts to take practical tests for their Road Safety Proficiency Badges.

From 1989 to the nineties, the park was used to provide road safety education for the senior citizens, where they were given lessons on safe crossing of roads at zebra crossings and traffic junctions. The elderly were encouraged to wear clothing of brighter colours to increase their visibility to the drivers.

Road Safety Campaigns and Mascots

The Traffic Police unveiled a mascot called Safety Bear (小安安) in 1986, together with a “More Patience, Fewer Accidents” slogan, as part of its road safety campaign.

Safety Bear was then introduced through televised safety filmlets, comic strips and printed T-shirts. There were even 6,000 Safety Bear toys on sale at the Road Safety Park, department stores and neighbourhood shops.

The mascot would become part of Singapore’s memorable and iconic mascots of the eighties and nineties, along with Singa the Courtesy Lion and Teamy the Productivity Bee.

The road safety campaign had a positive effect on many children. A 11-year-old girl called Carol Lin Meimei, in 1988, wrote a road safety poem that impressed the Traffic Police so much that they used it as part of their road safety education for the primary school students in the late eighties. The poem was:

I have learnt my two times table
And I know my A B C
But the thing that is most important
So my teacher says to me
Before I cross the road
To stop and look most carefully
I look to the right
I look to the left
And back to the right, I know.
And only if the road is clear
Am I allowed to go.
Whatever else I may forget
Kerb drill I must remember.
It’s most important everyday
From January to December.

In 2011, the Singapore Road Safety Council, Traffic Police, People’s Association and Automobile Association of Singapore collaborated to introduce another road safety mascot called Mr Zebra. Its road safety slogan was “Be Seen, Be Safe. Every Life Matters“.

Other road safety measures in the eighties included a road-crossing monitor scheme implemented in 1987 at many schools, where students in bright orange vests would stand near the school gates to ensure their fellow students obey the safety rules when entering and leaving the school.

As for the drivers, the Traffic Police introduced the Driver Improvement Point System (DIPS) in 1983 that identified habitual bad drivers for re-training. More resources were also allocated to improve the training and testing methods for the learner drivers. Two new training circuits – the Singapore Safety Driving Centre at Ang Mo Kio and Kampung Ubi Driving Test Centre – were opened in June 1985 and March 1986 respectively. Learner drivers must pass a Final Theory Test before they could take the practical driving test.

The road safety campaigns, measures and education helped to lower the number of accident-related deaths and injuries on Singapore roads in the eighties.

In 1994, for the first time since its opening, the Road Safety Park was closed for repainting and repair works. It was upgraded again in 2002, with a change of name to Road Safety Community Park to emphasise the importance of the community’s role in road safety. By its 20th year, more than one million students in Singapore had gone through the traffic games at the park.

In 2003, the Shell Traffic Games, which had always been held at the Road Safety Park, was moved indoors for the first time at the Singapore Expo Hall.

Today, the Road Safety Community Park is still hosting the annual traffic games for the students. According to the Traffic Police’s Road Safety Branch, the park will soon be upgraded once more as it continues to serve as an integral part of the ever-ongoing road safety campaigns.

Published: 27 July 2024

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Old Hill Street Police Station, the Iconic Colourful Landmark by the Singapore River

Originally called the Hill Street Police Station and Barracks, the majestic six-storey Neoclassical-style colonial building was Singapore’s largest government building when it was completed at a cost of about $634,000 in 1934. It was dubbed by the British as one of the finest police barracks in the world.

Former Landmarks

Old Hill Street Police Station is located at the junction of Hill Street and River Valley Road and at the foot of Fort Canning Hill. Singapore’s first prison and the Assembly Hall (also known as Assembly Rooms) formerly occupied this site in the 19th century.

The Assembly Hall started as an attap and wooden house, built for public functions as Singapore’s first town hall. In 1858, it held one of the colony’s most elaborate ceremonies, when the Knight Commander of the Bath (KCB) was bestowed on James Brooke, the “White Rajah of Sarawak”. A new Town Hall was later built in 1862 at Empress Place. The Victoria Memorial Hall was added to the Town Hall in 1905, and the building has become known as the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall today.

Early Police Stations

The first police office was a wooden shack built by convicts in 1821 near the present-day Anderson Bridge. Other police stations before 1880s were mostly timber buildings with unstable foundations.

In the late 1920s, Harold Fairburn (1884-1973), the Inspector-General of the Straits Settlements Police Force from 1925 to 1935, pushed for the construction of modern police stations in Singapore. He studied police requirements, crafted proposals and sought funds and approval from the colonial government.

Due to Harold Fairburn’s efforts, new concrete police stations were erected by the Public Works Department (PWD) between 1931 and 1936, including the Central Police Station, Beach Road Police Station and Barracks, Traffic Police’s branch at Maxwell Road and Sikh Police Barracks at Pearl’s Hill.

But the largest would be the Hill Street Police Station and Barracks, completed and officially opened in 1934. It was designed by Frank Dorrington Ward (1885-1972), Singapore’s Government Architect from 1928 to 1939, whose impressive portfolio included the Volunteers Headquarters, Clifford Pier, former Supreme Court building (present-day National Gallery Singapore), former Custom House and the terminal building of the former Kallang Airport.

Largest Police Station

The huge Hill Street Police Station and Barracks, designed with offices, garages, two prison cells and three electric lifts, could house 1,000 working personnel. The building also had bunks, kitchens and even badminton courts to meet the accommodation and recreational needs of the hundreds of policemen and their families staying at the police station between the 1930s and 1950s.

There was also the Singapore Police Creche, a nursey located at the top floor of police station. It served as a temporary home for the children of the policemen when they were outstationed or away for duties. Necessary medical care was also provided for those with sick and undernourished kids.

The nursery, headed by the Lady Medical Officer of the Police Force, was said to be one of its only kind in the Far East. During the Second World War, however, the Singapore Police Creche’s medical equipment, cots, beds and toys were looted by the Japanese.

Warning Sirens

The late 1930s saw increased international tensions throughout Europe and Asia. In Singapore, the colonial government carried out civil defence exercises in March 1939, simulating air raids and naval attacks of the island. A total of eight air raid warning sirens were installed at Hill Street Police Station, Orchard Road Police Station, Kandang Kerbau Police Station, Kallang Airport, Geylang Fire Station, Keppel Harbour and a garrison school at Mount Faber.

After the war, in 1958, another new air raid warning siren was installed and tested at Hill Street Police Station.

Japanese Occupation

The Hill Street Police Station, like many other government buildings, was taken over by the Japanese during the occupation. The offices and prison cells were rumoured to be used by the Kempeitai (Imperial Japanese Army’s military police) for interrogation and torture of the anti-Japanese personnel.

In 1943, the Japanese painted the Hill Street Police Station in dark brown shades, in order to camouflage the building against the Allied Forces’ air raids. After war, in 1949, the British repainted the building with new pearly white coats of paint, to signify a new era after Singapore’s darkest period in history.

Post-War Period

The Arms and Explosive Branch moved to Hill Street Police Station in 1949. It was the department that issued licenses to the private gun owners between the fifties to seventies.

In the fifties and sixties, audacious cases of robberies and fights between secret society members just outside the Hill Street Police Station were not uncommon.

Hill Street Police Station underwent a $500,000 renovation project in 1971. More than just a functioning office for the police force, the building then also housed numerous police-affiliated organisations such as the Police Junior Officers’ Association, Junior Officers’ Mess, Junior Officers’ Non-Muslim Benevolent Society, Lembaga Khairat Muslim (Muslim Benevolent Society) and the Police Cooperative and Loan Society.

In the seventies, urban renewals were carried out at many parts of Singapore’s downtown and city areas. In 1977, the Whampoa Ice House, a 123-year-old godown opposite of Hill Street Police Station, was demolished to make way for the widening of River Valley Road. The ice house, built by Ho Ah Kay in 1854, had been a prominent landmark in the vicinity for more than a century.

Hill Street Police Station was also a demolition target in the late seventies. Fortunately, in 1983, it was included in the Preservation of Monuments Board’s list of buildings, bridges, statues and monuments that merit preservation.

The police force vacated Hill Street Police Station by the end of the seventies. As the building no longer functioned as a police station, Hill Street Police Station was renamed Hill Street Building in 1980.

In the following decade, various agencies from the civil and public services moved into the building, including Board of Film Censors, Public Trustee’s Office, Official Receiver, Official Assignee, Display and Distribution Unit, Prison Welfare Service, and the National Archives and Records Centre (became National Archives and Oral History Department in 1981 and National Archives of Singapore in 1993).

The National Archives of Singapore stayed at Hill Street Building until 1997 as its last tenant.

Hill Street Building was gazetted as a national monument on 18 December 1998. It was given a $82-million facelift to convert the building into an arts centre, as well as offices for the Ministry of Information and The Arts (MITA) and its related statutory boards such as National Arts Council, National Heritage Board, Singapore Broadcasting Authority and Singapore International Foundation.

The major facelift also gifted the building its iconic appearance today. In 1999, the former police station building’s dull and stern image was instantly transformed when its 927 windows were painted with a riot of bright yellow, tangerine, red, green, blue and purple. On 1 November 2000, the reburbished building was officially reopened as MITA Building.

The opening of MITA Building would place MITA strategically opposite of The Treasury at High Street, which housed the Ministry of Trade and Industry, Ministry of Law, Ministry of Finance and Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

MITA absorbed the information technology function from the Ministry of Communications and Information Technology in 2001 and became the Ministry of Information, Communications and the Arts (MICA). Three years later, in 2004, MITA Building was renamed MICA Building.

In 2012, MICA was restructured to become part of the Ministry of Communications and Information (MCI) and Ministry of Culture, Community and Youth (MCCY). As it might be too difficult to remember the building’s name carrying the acronyms of the two ministries, it was decided that MICA Building would be renamed Old Hill Street Police Station.

A summary of the changes in the building’s name throughout the decades:

Name

Years

Remarks

1

Hill Street Police Station and Barracks

1934-1960s

Officially opened in 1934.

2

Silver Jubilee Building

1935

Briefly renamed in 1935 as a commemoration for the 25th anniversary of King George V’s reign.

3

Hill Street Police Station

1960s-1980

Policemen housed in the building were gradually relocated to other accommodation in Singapore.

4

Hill Street Building

1980-2000

The police force moved out of the building in 1980.

5

MITA Building

2000-2004

Home to the Ministry of Information and The Arts (MITA).

6

MICA Building

2004-2012

MITA was renamed Ministry of Information, Communications, and the Arts (MICA).

7

Old Hill Street Police Station

2012-Present

Reverted to its original name after MICA was restructured to become part of Ministry of Communications and Information (MCI) and Ministry of Culture, Community and Youth (MCCY).

Published: 30 June 2024

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End of the Road for Trishaws in Singapore

The First Trishaws

According to Singapore Infopedia, trishaws were first introduced in Singapore in 1914 as an improvised version to the two-wheel rickshaws. It had side chairs bolted to tricycle frames, and could be pedalled like bicycles. An American company apparently was keen to import 500 trishaws to Singapore but this request was rejected by the colonial government due to road safety issues.

However, in the local newspapers, “trishaw” was mentioned only in 1936 as a new type of vehicle that made its debut in Burma’s Rangoon. It was described as a further development of the rickshaw, fitted with a third wheel and propelled by pedals. It was able to cruise at 15 miles per hour (or 24km/h) speed on its three pneumatic tyres. Its inventor was said to be a Chinese resident in Burma, who had patented the new vehicle for use in British India and Burma.

Trishaws in Malaya

In British Malaya, 50 trishaws were introduced in Penang in 1936. Taiping had its first batch of 15 trishaws in 1941, whereas trishaws were brought into Singapore a year later, during the Japanese Occupation. The Syonan Times reported in 1942 that there were 48 trishaws plying the roads in Singapore.

Trishaws gained popularity rapidly, eventually replacing the rickshaws after the war. Bicycles, on the other hand, were still the most common mode of transport; the registered bicycles numbered 42,000 in September 1942.

In 1946, the Singapore Municipal Commission regulated the fares of the rickshaws and trishaws, after many complaints that the rickshaw pullers and trishaw riders were frequently demanding exorbitant charges. This was especially so during chaotic periods when bus companies put up strikes and disrupted the public transport system.

The regulations stated that the distance-based rickshaws and trishaws could not charge more than 20c per half mile. For those hired by time, the charge would be $1.50 per hour, and an additional 40c every subsequent 15 minutes. A rickshaw or trishaw hired for an entire day, regardless of distance, would cost a maximum of $6. For reference, a trishaw cost between $280 and $300 in the late forties, and could be rented out for $1 to $1.50 per day.

Rules and Regulations

In July 1946, the Municipal Commission decided not to renew the licenses of the 3,500 rickshaws in Singapore, as it was considered inhumane to treat the pullers as “beasts of burden” in this “degrading trade”. Rickshaws, therefore, would be officially phased out on 1 May 1947. In other parts of Malaya, rickshaws were banned in Malacca on 1 January 1948, followed by the ban of rickshaws in Penang in the same year.

The total number of registered trishaws in 1946 was 4,000. Due to impending ban of rickshaws, many rickshaw owners and pullers rushed to apply licenses to switch their vehicles to trishaws. In just a year, in 1947, the number of trishaws in Singapore more than doubled to 10,000, with 20,000 registered riders.

The oldest rickshaw puller at that time was 72-year-old Goh Ah Leng, who came to Malaya when he was 54 years old. He had previously worked as a sedan chair carrier in China. The rickshaw ban prompted him to retire and go back to China.

Besides the regulated fares, the Municipal Commission also imposed a list of rules for the trishaws, including the installation of efficient brakes, bells, and front and rear lamps. Every rider must wear a numbered arm badge that was visible at all times. No licenses would be granted to riders under 16 years old.

Trishaw riders were also required to pass a traffic test that comprise control of the trishaw, road sense, how to read the hand and light signals and knowledge of the rates of hire. Unlicensed trishaw riders were not permitted to ride on the Singapore roads.

In May 1947, 5,000 trishaw riders protested the new trishaw registration law and the hefty $5 registration fee, but the Municipal Commission stood firm in its decision. The trishaw riders also refused to wear the arm badges as they felt it was “humiliating”.

In 1948, the Municipal Commission added more rules, including the definition of trishaws as passenger-carrying vehicles and must not be used to carry goods only. It also ruled that trishaw riders must wear blue clothes, as a form of identification, starting from 1949.

The Singapore Rickshaw Owner’s Association, Singapore Trishaw Labour Union, Singapore Rick and Trishaw Workers’ Union, and Singapore Trishaw Owner’s Association were the major associations that looked after the interests of the rickshaw pullers and trishaw riders. This included subsidising the funeral expenses of a deceased member, or providing loans to a sick member to cover his medical expenditures.

Other than the more stringent rules and regulations, trishaw riders faced numerous issues during the forties and fifties. More riders means stiffer competition for customers; the riders often resort to aggressive touting and fights occasionally broke out.

There were extortions from the secret society members and gangsters too; although many of the riders themselves were part of the gangs. The riders also frequently flouted traffic rules, causing accidents and congestions and affecting other road users.

In 1949, the Singapore Commission proposed a third party insurance scheme to be taken up by each trishaw riders, much to the displease of the riders and their associations and unions. The insurance would be additional burden to their financial difficulties. The proposal was eventually dropped.

Trial of Trixis

The Municipal Commission and Registry of Vehicles (ROV) did a trial run of motorised trishaws (nicknamed “trixis” or “trishaw-taxis”) in 1950. “Trixis” were commonly found elsewhere in Bangkok, Saigon, Hong Kong and Indonesia.

George Lee Motors brought a small number of motorised trishaws into Singapore, but the attempt to introduce this new vehicle on a massive scale was strongly protested by the traditional trishaw riders and taxi drivers. In 1951, the Municipal Commission decided to scrap the “trixis” proposal.

Tourist Attraction

In 1954, almost 7,000 trishaw riders generously donated their entire day’s earning, along with the likes of shopkeepers, street hawkers and taxi drivers, for the building of the new Nanyang University.

Buses and taxis had become more common in the sixties, offering passengers speedier rides with competitive fares as compared to the slow and outdated trishaws. This caused the trishaw population to decline to around 3,000. The number dropped further to less than 2,000 by the end of the seventies. Many trishaw riders were struggling and living hand-to-mouth in this declining trade.

The trishaw business was given some revival hope in 1965, shortly after Singapore’s independence. The newly-set up Singapore Tourist Promotion Board (STPB) identified trishaws as “great tourist attractions”. At some of the leading hotels, designated trishaw stands were built for tourists to take the trishaws for some sightseeing tours of the Chinatown and city area.

Singapore also featured a trishaw as one of its attractions at the Expo ’70 held at Osaka, Japan. In 1973, Singapore presented a trishaw to a French museum during the Jaycees World Congress. Another trishaw was displayed by STPB at the Singapore Fair ’76 in Tokyo’s Toshima-en Amusement Park.

There was even a “cleanest trishaw” competition in 1968, organised by the ROV as part of “Keep Singapore Clean” campaign. 41-year-old trishaw rider Ong Ah Lock, with his gleaming blue trishaw, came in first and was awarded $60 in prize money.

In the seventies, the University of Singapore’s (NUS) Student Union organised the Trishaw Pageant as a means to foster the cultural and social aspects of the Singapore society. Held annually, it featured a convoy of trishaws that displayed different national themes of slogans and undergrads in their fancy dresses. The trishaw parade would travel from NUS’s Bukit Timah campus to Orchard Road, attracting huge crowds along the way.

In December 1974, the trishaws were banned from plying along the major and congested roads during peak hours. Some of the roads listed in the ban were Bra Basah Road, Victoria Street, New Bridge Road, Robinson Road and North and South Bridge Roads.

Another new rule under Road Traffic (Public Service Vehicles) (Vocational Licenses and Conduct of Drivers, Conductors and Passengers) (Amendment) Rules was implemented in 1977, setting an age limit for the licensing of public service vehicle drivers and trishaw riders. They could no longer drive these vehicles on the roads after the age of 70.

The seventies and eighties witnessed Singapore’s booming tourism industry but this also led to numerous complaints of taxi drivers and trishaw riders overcharging and extorting the tourists.

One 1981 case even involved the Interpol when a couple of Japanese tourists were forced to pay $310 each for trishaw rides from King’s Hotel to the Singapore Handicraft Centre at Tanglin Road. In 1982, an American university professor was demanded $128 for a two-hour trishaw ride in town. The increasing number of such cases damaged Singapore’s reputation as a tourist destination.

As a result, Operation Trishaw was carried out in 1982 by the ROV and Tanglin Police to round up the unlicensed trishaw riders and those who charged exorbitant fares from their passengers. 12 trishaw riders were caught in the operation.

In 1987, the ROV approved the displaying of advertisements on trishaws in Singapore. Japanese camera and film maker Konica was the first to advertise on trishaws. This brought an additional income of $50 per month for each of the selected 150 trishaw riders.

According to ROV’s 1988 Annual Report, there were only 533 licensed trishaw riders left in Singapore. Hock Sin Hin, located at Joo Chiat Road, was the last shop in Singapore to assemble, repair, rent and sell trishaws. Its business was started half a century ago in the 1930s.

In the nineties, STPB licensed three travel agents – Trishaw Tours Pte Ltd, Triwheel Tours Pte Ltd and Pedicab Tours Pte Ltd – to operate trishaw tours in Singapore.

Trishaw Uncle, the sister company of Singapore River Cruises Leisure, was established in 2010. With its fleet of 100 trishaws, the company hoped to revitalise the nostalgic scene of old Singapore with city tours for the tourists. The Singapore Tourism Board (formerly STPB and renamed STB in 1997) appointed it to manage the Albert Mall Trishaw Park at Queen Street.

However, in May 2023, Trishaw Uncle, by then the only licensed trishaw operator left in Singapore, had its license ended and not renewed. Its trishaw tours were halted, with most of its trishaws scrapped. Once a common mode of public transport in Singapore for many decades, trishaws would likely disappear from the roads forever.

Published: 11 May 2024

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Exploring the Marsiling Tunnels

Hidden in a small forested hill at Marsiling, the Marsiling Tunnels refer to a mysterious underground bunker when they were rediscovered in the early 2000s. It turned out to be the Woodlands North Depot, an oil reserve station built by the British for their Royal Air Force (RAF) aircrafts. During the Second World War, the Japanese occupied and used the tunnels as their own fuel reserve depot.

It was initially thought that the tunnels might lead to a nearby British barracks at View Road, which was built in the early forties. The building was then used as a mental institution between 1975 and 2001, and as a foreign worker dormitory in the 2010s. Another speculation was that the Marsiling Tunnels’ link to Johor Bahru, but this turned out to be untrue.

The Marsiling Tunnels reportedly descend two storeys deep, and have four entranceways but three have already been sealed for safety reasons. Deep inside the tunnels are large rusty pipes.

The Marsiling Tunnels are not the first tunnel to be discovered in the Kranji and Woodlands areas. There were reportedly several tunnels built by the British and Japanese to be used as stores or air raid shelters. Most were destroyed after the war, while a few were forgotten with their sites reclaimed by nature over the years.

One such tunnel was discovered at Marsiling Road in 1952 by four youths searching for scrap metal. The discovery was then reported by the newspapers, prompting many to explore the tunnel for treasure. A Boyanese worker came forward to reveal the mystery – the tunnel was built by the Japanese during the occupation as an oil and arms dump, believed to be the largest in southern Malaya during the Second World War.

One Chinese contractor, in hope of finding some war treasure or oil reserve, spent $4,000 to excavate the tunnel, but found nothing but concrete walls and some remnants of railway lines and electrical cables.

A former prisoner-of-war (POW) shared that such tunnels were common, as the Japanese dug many tunnels after they invaded Singapore, possibly using them as refuge for their troops in case of bombardment attacks by the Allied forces. He and other POWs were forced during the Japanese Occupation to dig tunnels at Outram Road, Havelock Road and Tiong Bahru Road.

In 2014, the National Library Board (NLB) launched a Marsiling Tunnels heritage tour to commemorate the 72nd anniversary of the Battle of Singapore.

Published: 24 April 2024

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Sago Lane’s Grim History of “Death Houses”

According to a 1840s map, Sago Street appeared earlier than Sago Lane. Sago Street was located at the westernmost boundary of the Chinatown area, a Chinese precinct created as part of the British’s town planning and ethnic segregation in the early 19th century.

A small hill named Dickinson Hill was situated where Kreta Ayer People’s Theatre is today. It was named after Reverend J.T. Dickenson who ran a missionary school at the nutmeg tree-filled hill. Also known as Bukit Padre, it was later renamed Bukit Pasoh.

In 1826, when the first landed property titles were issued, many leases for land around North and South Bridge Roads were won by the Chinese, who went on to build rows of shophouses along Sago Street, Smith Street, Almeida Street, Pagoda Street, Mosque Street, Upper Cross Street, Upper Chin Chew Street, Upper Nankin Street, Upper Hokien Street and Upper Macao Street.

Many of the shophouses at Sago Street were used as sago factories when they were built in the 1840s. There was a total of 17 sago factories – 15 Chinese sago factories and 2 owned by the Europeans. The abundance of the sago factories gave rise to the names of Sago Street and later Sago Lane.

Chinatown Streets

In 1927, the colonial government approved the Dickinson Hill development scheme, including the building of many tenement houses at the area to improve the housing issue. New roads – Keong Siak Road and Dickenson Hill Road – were built at the vicinity in 1931.

Pre-war Banda Street was notoriously known as Japanese Street due to many Japanese prostitutes soliciting in the area. After the war, it was occupied by the night street hawkers who enjoyed brisk businesses from the mourners and families visiting Sago Lane’s death houses and funeral parlours.

Almeida Street was renamed Temple Street in 1908 to avoid confusion with D’Almeida Street (at Raffles Place) and Almeida Road (Orchard).

Chin Chew Street, Nankin Street, Hokien Street and Macao Street were all named after places in China (Quanzhou, Nanjing, Fujian and Macau today). On 1 January 1925, the Municipal Commission renamed Macao Street (and Upper Macao Street) to Pickering Street (and Upper Pickering Street). Upper Chin Chew Street and Upper Nankin Street were expunged in the mid-seventies to make way for the development of Hong Lim Complex.

Social Issues

In 1849, there were about 28,000 Chinese in Singapore. The influx of Chinese immigrants in the late 19th century led to the dense population at Chinatown. The Chinese immigrants, many of them working as coolies and rickshaw pullers, were packed into the overcrowded shophouses.

Sago Street and Sago Lane were constantly plagued by the several secret societies that fought for territories. At Sago Lane, gang fights frequently broke out around a popular eating house called Wah Tian Lock. Extortions and robberies were rife, with many shophouses used as brothels, gambling houses, opium shops and gangster hideouts.

Infectious Diseases

In 1895, the Municipal Health Officer reported many deaths due to cholera, especially at the overcrowded places such as Sago Lane. Cases of infectious diseases such as beriberi, tuberculosis, dysentery, malaria and smallpox continued to plague Sago Lane and other parts of Chinatown throughout the early 20th century.

Installation of clean water pipes, levelling of drains and metalling of the road were carried out at Sago Lane in the 1910s. However, this did little to improve its sanitation and hygienic conditions.

Fire Disasters 

A large fire broke out in 1925 and destroyed two three-storied shophouses at the junction of Sago Lane and Banda Road. Another fire occurred in 1933, damaging six of South Bridge Road’s shophouses. The flames spread rapidly towards Sago Street and Sago Lane but fortunately the firemen were able to put out the fire in time.

In 1956, a fire blazed through a four-storey building at Sago Lane. Six, including two kids, perished. 47 people were made homeless. Acting Chief Minister Chew Swee Kee (1918-1985) visited and consoled the families of the victims.

The disaster, Singapore’s worse since the war, raised concerns of the fire safety of Chinatown’s shophouses. The overcrowded living conditions, lack of fire escape exits in the buildings, widespread use of oil lamps, and the burning of joss sticks and paper effigies all posed a deadly fire risk to the residents.

Violent Riots

On 26 October 1956, many parts of Singapore were struck by riots and violence after the government shut down the Singapore Chinese Middle Schools Students’ Union (SCMSSU) and dismissed teachers and students involved in suspected communist-related activities.

Later known as the Chinese Middle School Student Riots, hundreds of hysterical mobs, made up of Chinese students and hooligans, attacked the Europeans and policemen, who fired back, resulting in the death of seven rioters. More than 70 rioters, civilians and policemen were injured.

A curfew was enforced in the afternoon but did little to tame the riots. 160 Federation policemen were activated from Johor as reinforcement to support Singapore’s police force. Some of the violence occurred at Paya Lebar Airport, Guillemard Road, Merdeka Bridge, Maxwell Road, Telok Ayer Road, South Bridge Road, Beauty World and Geylang. At Sago Lane, a crowd of 200 mobsters attacked a police radio car.

Sick Houses

A 1892 newspaper article of a Sago Lane shophouse might be one of the earliest mentions of a sick or death house that later became a common phenomenon at Sago Lane. In this shophouse were sick and dying women and their babies abandoned by the nearby brothels. Seven deaths took place in it in just 18 days, including five infants and two young women.

Sick houses were also known as sick receiving houses. But these hospices of the older days, in reality, were not for the sick to recuperate and recover. Those suffering from critical illness and injuries were instead left to die in them.

This was due to a common Chinese belief. If a person was allowed to die in a dwelling house, it would bring bad luck to the co-tenants living in the same house. This persistent superstition often forced the dying person to be removed and sent to the sick houses.

However, most of the sick houses were of poor conditions. Some sick houses were run by the undertakers, and they simply placed the sick or dying person on a bed beside coffins with corpses inside.

In 1928, out of a total 12,000 deaths in Singapore, almost 1,000 happened in the sick houses. The Municipal Commission therefore passed a law to license the sick houses so that the owners would properly maintain the facilities and conditions of their sick houses.

By 1939, there were four sick houses at Sago Lane and a dozen more in other parts of Chinatown. For $10, the sick person could be admitted to any of these sick houses and left alone to his or her fate. The sick houses would not provide any food; this had be provided by the sick person’s relatives or friends.

Death Houses

After the war, sick houses became better known as the death houses or dying houses, as Sago Lane evolved into the centre of the Chinese funeral industry in Singapore. The local Cantonese called it sei yan kai (“street of the dead in Cantonese) or mun chai kai (“undertaker street”).

By 1948, seven death houses were operating in Singapore; two were licensed as “sick receiving houses” and the other five unlicensed. One of the two licensed death houses was Kwok Mun, said to have established at Sago Lane 45 years ago in the early-1900s. It occupied two shophouses where one shophouse served as the admission office whereas the other was the mortuary. The top floors were separated into the male and female wards, each with wooden beds arranged in typical dormitory style.

An average of six deaths occurred daily at Sago Lane’s death houses. The street was constantly filled with frangipani smell due to the rows of wreaths. Death houses never closed their doors – they were manned by their staff day and night.

The Ban

In 1958, the Singapore City Council proposed that the death houses – two at Sago Lane and one at Balestier Road – to be shifted to the rural areas as they were increasingly considered a fire hazard. Those who opposed argued that death houses were a social necessity. The proposal eventually did not get approved.

In the late fifties, the British media screened a documentary film about Singapore’s death houses, leading to many curious tourists flocking to Sago Lane to see the mysterious houses and funeral trade.

Instead of showing fear, the tourists often checked out with great interest the Oriental-style casket shops, coffin makers and the workers that made paper houses, cars, horses, effigies and lanterns.

The Singapore government was disturbed by Sago Lane’s unwanted publicity that the death houses were officially banned in 1961. The owners could still continue their businesses if they converted their premises into funeral parlours, but they were not allowed to accept any living person other than the dead. Sick people had to be taken to the hospitals for treatments, and not to the death houses.

Urban Renewal

Even with the ban, death houses at Sago Lane persisted until the seventies. There was still a demand as many Chinese elderly remained reluctant to go to the hospitals when they were ill, instead preferring to check into a death house.

But the end of Sago Lane’s death houses, and its prosperous businesses of funeral parlours and coffin makers, eventually came to an end due to the government’s urban renewal programme. In the early seventies, a section of Sago Lane was expunged to accommodate the Housing and Development Board’s (HDB) construction of the $18-million Kreta Ayer Complex.

The existing L-shaped shophouses and tenement houses along Sago Lane were torn down in 1971, affecting thousands of residents who had lived there for generations. The street hawkers were also ordered to shift to other places.

12 funeral parlours were left at Sago Lane by 1972. Many were arranged to continue their businesses at Geylang Bahru Industrial Estate. The decades-old Kwok Mun registered its business as a funeral parlour in 1975 and was shifted from Sago Lane to Sin Ming in 1983. The company, however, folded in the 2000s.

At the site of the former shophouses and tenement houses were two new 21-storey HDB flats (Block 4 and 5) completed in 1973.

Next to be affected was Smith Street and its residents. Eventually almost 100,000 people living in Chinatown were impacted by the urban renewal programme and had to be rehoused in HDB estates after their pre-war shophouses were pulled down.

Kreta Ayer Complex, consists of two blocks at 21-storey and 25-storey respectively, was completed in 1981. Its wet market and hawker centre, opened in 1983, housed many of Chinatown’s former street hawkers. Kreta Ayer Complex was renamed Chinatown Complex in 1984.

The death houses and funeral industry of Sago Lane were gone after the mid-seventies; its grim yet legendary past gradually faded away and forgotten over time.

Prominent Landmarks

Several prominent landmarks had emerged near Sago Lane. Built in 1960, the Kreta Ayer Community Centre was originally known as Banda Street Community Centre. It underwent extensive renovations in 1979. In 1993, in another upgrading project, an old coffin containing a skeleton was uncovered underneath the community centre’s basketball court, indicating that the area was near a Chinese burial ground in the past.

The Kreta Ayer People’s Theatre was opened on 24 March 1969 as an open-air stage for traditional Chinese operas and wayangs. It underwent an overhaul in 1979, and became a 940-seat theatre for cultural performances.

The Kreta Ayer Education Centre at Sago Lane was opened by then-Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Defence Dr Goh Keng Swee on 3 February 1976.

In the late nineties, the Singapore Tourism Board (STB) proposed that the vacant site between Sago Lane and Sago Street to be used for the construction of a traditional Buddhist temple, so as to blend into Chinatown landscape. This led to the construction and opening of the grand Buddha Tooth Relic Temple on 30 May 2007.

Published: 26 March 2024

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Doors Shuttered for Good for Peace Centre

Peace Centre was born in the early seventies, a period where many skyscrapers popped up in the city and downtown areas of Singapore. Towering commercial complexes costing tens of millions of dollars were built at blistering pace; some examples were the 50-storey Development Bank of Singapore (DBS) building, United Industrial Corporation (UIC) building (40 storeys), Robina House (26 storeys), Shenton House (25 storeys), Hong Leong Building (45 storeys) and Straits Trading Building (28 storeys).

The site of Peace Centre at the junction of Sophia and Selegie Roads was acquired in 1970 with a 99-year tenure. Its concept, dubbed as a utilitarian concept in building construction and a multi-million dollar towering skyscraper, was released a year later. The $30-million project by Kian An Realty, jointly financed by Singapore and Hong Kong businessmen, would consist of two parts – Peace Centre and Peace Mansion.

Peace Centre was designed to have a seven-storey front podium and a ten-storey rear podium with a multi-storey carpark, whereas Peace Mansion would be a 22-storey residential tower made up of 84 apartments and two penthouses. The project was built by local construction company Low Keng Huat Construction (LKHC), who was also the builder of the iconic People’s Park Complex, UOB Building, OCBC Centre, Mandarin Hotel and Plaza Singapura.

In 1973, Peace Centre’s front podium was completed. It had shops, supermarket, medical specialist centre, eateries, offices and even a 36-lane bowling centre called Star Bowl. Peace Mansion was completed in 1977.

Shortly after its completion, Peace Centre’s new neighbour Parklane Shopping Mall, a 10-storey building catered for one-stop shopping, was also opened for business, adding vibrancy to this stretch of Selegie Road.

A sheltered pedestrian bridge, built by the Urban Renewal Authorities, was linked from Peace Centre to Selegie Complex (present-day Wilkie Edge Shopping Mall) on the other side of Sophia Road. Over the years, the bridge became a recognisable landmark for drivers entering Sophia Road.

The $5-million Star Bowl bowling centre at Peace Centre was the largest in Singapore when it was opened in September 1973. On its opening day, the management donated the entire earnings of $1,514 to the Singapore Anti-Narcotics Association and Spastics Children Association of Singapore.

In July 1974, Star Bowl hosted the 7th Cathay Pacific-Brunswick Far East bowling tournament involving top bowlers from Singapore, Thailand, The Philippines, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Indonesia and Australia. The popular bowling centre, however, lasted only eight years. It shut down in February 1981, when the owners sold it to an office developer.

One of the early tenants at Peace Centre was the Singapore Cancer Society, which set up clinics and a Cancer Information Centre in the new building in 1974. Officially opened by then-Singapore President Benjamin Henry Sheares (1907-1981), the Cancer Information Centre consisted of a Books and Films Library that provided materials for the society’s campaigns to educate the public on the importance of early detection in cancer and the cures.

Singapore Cancer Society, in 1979, also set up a Smoking Cessation Clinic at Peace Centre to help smokers who wished to kick their habit.

Some of the other associations that were housed at Peace Centre were the Singapore Government Servants’ Co-operative Thrift and Loans Society, Singapore Association for Counselling, Singapore Optometric Association, Girls’ Brigade International and Youth Challenge.

The National Trades Union Congress (NTUC) had their Welcome supermarket opened at Peace Centre’s ground and first floors in 1974, taking up 1,200m2 of space. The seventies saw NTUC expanding their operations; the Peace Centre’s branch was NTUC’s fourth in Singapore, after Toa Payoh, Bukit Ho Swee and Serangoon Gardens.

A NTUC Travel Service was also established at Peace Centre, offering discounted travel package tours to workers under the union.

In January 1975, NTUC added its first ever emporium at Peace Centre’s first floor, selling a wide range of products from children’s wear and toys to watches and electrical appliances. It was a $50,000 pilot project to test the public response to NTUC’s selling of non-supermarket items. However, the emporium lasted only nine months. Poor revenue forced the management to shut it down in September 1975.

Peace Centre’s NTUC Welcome supermarket ceased in the early eighties after years of relatively poor sale turnover compared to other NTUC branches. It was then restructured into NTUC FairPrice supermarket, where it continued until 2002. Its retail space at Peace Centre was then outbid and took over by Cold Storage.

Peace Centre had a large variety of shops, ranging from bookstores, money changers and tuition centres to hair salons, pubs and coffee houses.

Regular patrons would remember the likes of City Music Company (music store in the eighties), Kam Kee Yong’s School of Music (music school), Intellect Education Centre (tuition centre, third floor), Waterford School (tuition centre), Systematic Business Training Centre (course provider), Iwa Oneprice Store (department store), Christian Book Centre (religious books), Prince Book Centre (secondhand books, ground floor), Emms Boutique (female apparel and office wear, second floor), Bigston Electronics (car stereo products), Ren Sports (sports equipment), Chong Seng Tailor (first floor), Supreme Chemist (pharmacy), Shafinah Video Vision (videotapes), Art Friends (art and craft materials) and Otrona, the first Singapore-owned company to make personal computers in the eighties.

For Peace Centre’s restaurants and eateries, the more well-known ones were the uniquely-named Sorry Snack House in late seventies, Paseo Cafe Bar (second floor, eighties), Don Sancho Members Club (nightclub beside Paseo), Coffehouse Restaurant (second floor) and Peace Restaurant, which was opened at the seventh floor of Peace Centre in 1977.

A Singapore Turf Club branch also operated at Peace Centre’s ground floor, a favourite lottery and horseracing betting outlet among the punters.

By the 2000s, the aging Peace Centre was gradually falling out of favour due to the emergence of many new shopping malls elsewhere in Singapore. The mall’s interior was outdated and there were frequent aircon breakdowns, and power and water supply disruptions. At Peace Mansion, it was getting a poor reputation with its all sleazy KTVs and nightclubs. It was not uncommon to see fights and brawls broke out outside Peace Centre and Peace Mansion.

In 2007, Peace Centre and Peace Mansion were put up for a collective sale of $470 million but without success. The properties were put up for sale again in 2011, this time for $700 million. A third attempt for $680 million was in 2014.

Peace Centre and Peace Mansion were eventually sold, on the fifth try, in 2021 for $650 million to property firms Chip Eng Seng and SingHaiyi.

The demolition date for Peace Centre and Peace Mansion was scheduled to be in mid-2023, but the new owners agreed to extend it by another six months for the building to used by PlayPan and their social movement which included art jamming, painting of wall graffiti and murals, and other creative experimental projects. Some also set up small temporary thrift shops to try out their entrepreneurial aspirations.

In the last weekend of January 2024, a PeaceOut festival was organised, where more than 1,500 partygoers attended. Peace Centre and Peace Mansion were officially closed after that.

Published: 27 February 2024

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A Last Look at Turf City

Turf City was officially closed on 31 December 2023, after a brief history that lasted slightly more than two decades. It had been existing on borrowed time, as the site was safeguarded for future residential use since the Master Plan 1998, according to Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA).

On 22 September 2022, the Land Transport Authority (LTA) announced that the new Cross Island Line’s (CRL) will have six stations, and one of them, Turf City Station, will be constructed under the former racetracks and fields. That began the countdown for the closure of Turf City.

Turf City consisted of a large 150-hectare open space, about the size of 200 football fields, that was built at the former racecourse of the Bukit Timah Turf Club (1933-1999). When the Turf Club was relocated to Kranji in 1999, the site was handed over to the Singapore Land Authority (SLA), which went on to manage the premises for 24 years until its closure in end-2023.

The old Turf Club grandstand was extensively renovated in 2001 with a $20-million budget, promising to become a megamall with anchor tenants and specialty shops. A massive used car dealing centre was also established to rival the motor hubs at Kampong Ubi and Leng Kee Road.

After the completion of its renovations, Turf City had a soft opening to the public as some of its larger tenants moved in. Giant Superstore extended its presence in Singapore with the opening of a second hypermarket at Turf City in December 2001. It had earlier successfully launched at IMM in 1999.

Courts opened at Turf City too, with its iQ concept tech store showcasing the latest gadgets and electronic consumer products. A large furniture store was also opened by the Singapore Furniture Association (SFA). Ah Yat Seafood Restaurant was one of the first eateries at Turf City when they opened in 2002.

Expecting to attract huge crowds to the megastores and restaurants, Turf City designated more than 2,000 parking lots to ensure ample parking space for the visiting customers.

But Turf City was not born in the best of times. The burst of the dotcom bubble and 911 incident in the United States clouded the global economic outlook in the early 2000s. Singapore was not spared, as it suffered from weakening consumer demand and a slowing retail property market. The rental rates of the new Turf City, about 80% the size of Suntec, were significantly lower in order to attract businesses and tenants. Nevertheless, Turf City was officially opened on 22 June 2002.

In 2003, the old racetrack was converted into numerous pitches and courts that catered to a wide variety of sports such as football, futsal, rugby, softball, netball, tennis and archery. Other than a lifestyle and automobile hub, Turf City was also establishing itself as a leisure sports hub. For the next two decades, Turf City became an all-in-one place for sports, seafood, second hand cars, groceries, childcare, antiques and other services. It even had an axe-throwing range.

Singapore’s horse-racing industry has been in steady decline in the recent years. The Bukit Timah Saddle Club, popular with its rustic environment and stables, was closed in February 2023. The Singapore Turf Club at Kranji, which took over from Bukit Timah Turf Club in 1999, is expected to cease operations in October 2024, bringing the 180-year-old local horse-racing history to an end.

For Turf City, a heritage assessment conducted by the National University of Singapore’s (NUS) Department of Architecture in 2022 recommended keeping some of the iconic structures of the former Turf Club, especially the huge grandstand building. But so far there is no confirmation from the URA yet.

Published: 14 January 2024

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Rejuvenation of the Old Ang Mo Kio Swimming Complex

Right after the tearing down of the old Toa Payoh Swimming Complex, another old public swimming complex will also be walking into history. The old Ang Mo Kio Swimming Complex is currently undergoing demolition, as part of the rejuvenation plans for the aging Ang Mo Kio New Town. The site will be redeveloped into a new complex called Active SG @Ang Mo Kio, comprising swimming pool, gym and fitness studio.

Opened in May 1982, the 41-year-old Ang Mo Kio Swimming Complex was perhaps best known for its iconic orange-bricked walls and tetrahedron-shaped roofs.

The unique design of the roofs was recognised and nominated by the Singapore Institute of Architects in 1986 for its Micro Architectural Design Awards, competing with other design nominees in the Housing and Development Board (HDB) category including the Woodlands Town Garden (roof), Bukit Batok Neighbourhood Centre (column) and Hougang Area Office (sunscreen).

Not all memories were good at the old Ang Mo Kio Swimming Complex. Two tragic drowning incidents occurred at its swimming pools in a span of two months between September and October 1986. A 11-year-old boy struggled and drowned after a daring challenge with his friend. A month later, a 24-year-old clerk suffered a heart failure and drowned in the pool.

In April 1989, the maximum temperatures in many parts of Singapore reached 34.5degC. Due to the scorching hot weather, Ang Mo Kio and Toa Payoh Swimming Complexes reported a rise in the number of swimmers by 20 to 30 percent.

Ang Mo Kio Swimming Complex underwent a major renovation in December 1993. It was closed for a long 20 months for a series of upgrading works and defect rectifications, and was eventually re-opened in August 1995.

Many nearby residents and long-time swimmers of the old Ang Mo Kio Swimming Complex will certainly miss the place that had accompanied them for more than four decades.

Published: 21 December 2023

Updated: 8 January 2023

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